Friday, June 17

Over dinner, BK and I decided that we would hike La Cumbre the following day. Given my horrific night of chills, sweats, aches and runs, I really doubted that I would be able to make it. Nevertheless, I convinced myself that my brain was stronger than my large intestine. I willed myself out of bed at 7:45, quickly got my things together and forced down some pancakes despite the general nausea whenever I put anything in my mouth. BK arrived at 8:30 and we were on our way via taxi (Bs80).

La Cumbre is a beautiful area in which to hike. There are accessible lakes and bogs assuming you have the lungs and will to walk uphill at 4800 meters (15,000'). BK were both in much better conditioning for this type of hike and I often lagged far behind, reminding myself of the time when I ran up Mt. Saint Helens and Mt. Ranier. Of course, neither were at nearly the same height, this by far the highest I had ever been outside an airplane.

Laguna, La Cumbre, Bolivia

This has to easily be one of the most beautiful and inspiring places I have birded. It is quite obvious that you are hiking in an unique environment. While the number of species is fairly small, it is impressive that so much lives in such a barren, yet beautiful setting.

The first two lagunas offered Andean gull, Giant Coot, White-winged Diuca Finch, White-winged Cinclodes, Crested Duck, Andean Goose, Andean Swallow and Silvery Grebe. Following the jeep track around the back side of the laguna toward the crest of the mountain behind it, I located a pair of Rufous-bellied Seedsnipes. The bogs at the back end of the second laguna yielded Puna Ground-Tyrant. Waiting for a bus to take us back to La Paz, I spotted a Red Shoveler, Cinereous Ground-Tyrant, and Spectacled Teal.

White-winged Duica Finch

Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe

Andean Goose

The wait for a ride was much shorter than in Miguelito, as a bus to La Paz stopped to let us on. There were more passengers than seats, but the problem was made infinitely worse by two women who sat at the top step. Despite acres of space in the aisle to stand, they clogged up the works, leaving the three of us to perch on whatever chunk of space we could manage in the stairway. An uncomfortable ride eventually brought us to El Alto, where we took a taxi to the terminal.

At this point, all I wanted was a siesta. My body hurt and I was starting to feel ill. But, BK are both doctors and had been researching my illness in their spare time. They offered to take me to a pharmacy to see if a different medication from the one prescribed back in the States would do the trick. While I was exhausted and grumpy, I knew this option was better in the long run. The amazing thing about Bolivian pharmacies is: you don't need a prescription. We just sauntered in, asked for Titidazol and the pharmacist handed it to us. And I was able to buy hospital strength Ibuprofen on the spot. All this for less than $7. Just holding the boxes of medicine had a palliative effect and I readily agreed to lunch at Subway. The ibuprofen has already taken care of the headache and joint/muscle pain. Lets hope the antiprotozoan also has the desired effect.

Bird tally: 10 new, 10 lifers

Thursday, June 16

I woke up and was in a taxi by 7am. There was some confusion about which Mecapaca I wanted, which led the taxi fare to jump from Bs20 to Bs100. I could have caught a trufi from the first Mecapaca, but I have followed the pattern of taxi out, public transport back so as not to lose time in the morning. Arriving in the main square, I continued walking the main road along the hillside, coming across Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Rufous-naped Ground Tyrant, White-winged Black Tyrant, White-tipped Plantcutter, Blue-capped Violetear, Giant Hummingbird and Red-tailed Comet. Turning towards the river, I found Blue-and-white Swallow, Bar-winged Cinclodes, Picui-Ground Dove, Roadside Hawk, Andean Gull, Andean Lapwing, Puna Ibis, Mountain Caracara, and Picazuro Pigeon. 

Andean Lapwing

While I birded through the plots of land neatly arranged in squares along the river plain, the locals went about the daily necessities of rural agriculture: breaking up hardened soil with pick-axes, hacking at reeds to feed the cattle, and communing in small groups for lunch-time tea surrounded by potato plants in full bloom.

Tea break, Mecapaca

Working my way through these potato patches and reedbeds, I saw Common Moorhen and Plumbeous Rail. I explored the area around some abandoned buidlings, finding American Kestrels, White-tailed Plantcutter, Cinereous Ground-Tyrant, Brown-backed Mockingbird, Saffron-billed Saltator, Grey-headed Parakeet, Ash-breasted Sierra Finch and Greenish Yellow Finch. There was scrub and trees to the left of a tin-roofed house, which was the best area of the day, producing Bolivian Earthcreeper in addition to a male White-winged Black Tyrant, Brown-backed Mockingbird, White-tipped Plantcutter, Blue-and-yellow Tanager, and Spot-winged Dove.

Plumbeous Rail

Bolivian Earthcreeper

I enjoyed a bowl of soup at a small restaurant in the main square of Mecapaca, but did not have an appetite for the chicken, potatoes and beans that followed. I swallowed some of each to be polite then caught the trufi (235, Bs4.50) back to La Paz. I met BK for dinner at a French restaurant (La Comedie), but my health quickly deteriorated over the course of the meal. The soup was quite good, the ceviche mediocre and the potato gratin maybe the most disgusting thing I have eating in Bolivia. It was essentially 2 sliced potatoes drenched in 3 sticks of butter. I returned to the hostel with my muscles and joints aching, my stomach churning and my whole body shivering. Truly, one of the most miserable nights I have endured.

Bird tally: 9 new, 9 lifers 

Wednesday, June 15

The ride to La Paz was a spectacular as a night bus could be. The moon was nearly full, illuminating the landscape with a bluish haze that was reflected skyward by the arid Andean mountains. It was as if we were driving on the moon, past deep valleys that were scooped from earth by the hands of giants.

Unfortunately, we arrived sooner than planned, which translates into dark and cold. Both Ben and I had gotten the impression that La Paz was less than safe at night, so we dawdled in the terminal for a bit until the sky started to lighten. I headed off to a hostel I had seen, but when I arrived they said no room was available. I ended up taking a cab back to the bus terminal to try another hostel (Adventure Brew). They had space in an 8 person dorm (Bs60), which was not the intended level of travel for this trip, but I happily accepted it.

I started a conversation with a German woman who agreed to watch my bags (she had also just arrived that morning) while I found something in the city to eat. That was easier said than done, but I did procure some bread rolls and eggs. The hostel closes the kitchen at 8am, however, and we were left with untoasted bread with butter, which nevertheless tasted wonderful at that juncture. At some point, I meandered upstairs with my things and napped on a couch until noon. Waking up, I then stumbled up to the top floor in search of a bathroom, where I discovered a bar with an incredible view of the city and Illumani in the distance. I spent most of the afternoon with my bird guides and laptop catching up on bird notes just enjoying the scene.

Around 3:30, I headed out to explore a bit of the city. Opposed to much of what I had heard, I quite enjoyed the city; it has a vibe and energy that were distinctly lacking in either Santa Cruz and Cochabamba. The city is vaguely European, with narrow cobbled streets. The spires of cathedrals rise to meet the apartment buildings in a battle for the skyline while the residents scuttle along tightrope-wide sidewalks. Of course, it is still Bolivia and so not nearly as polished as the cities of France or Germany or Italy; I was reminded of Budapest.

The street I was walking opened into Plaza San Francisco, where the legislature meets. The square was carpeted with pigeons and people purchased feed from vendors along the edge. A favorite trick was encouraging the pigeons to land on your arms and head. One little girl appeared quite expert in this feat. I believe I also spotted my first House Sparrow of the trip.

Girl with pigeons, La Paz

I returned to the hostel for a beer and to meet BK for dinner. We shared a round of drinks then headed off to El Tambo for supper. Ben ordered beef, while Kristina and I ordered llama, but with different sauces. Absolutely delicious.

Bird tally: 1 new

Tuesday, June 14

The plan was to wake up early and take a trufi to Miguelito on the Chapere Road. I did wake up early. I did get myself out of bed. I did put on pants and a sock. On second thought, I went back to bed. After another 15 or 20 minutes, I re-motivated and was packed and out of the hotel by 7am. I took a cab to the trufi stop, and the driver was the same man as yesterday morning. It took some discussion to decide precisely where Miguelito was, but eventually I got in the minivan and was on my way (Bs35). There are markers at each KM, but these use a different system than those mentioned in my reference notes. The older system only has markers every 10 or 20km. I tried to align the old and new system when we passed KM40 around Corani. After the trancha, the old numbering system is signed more frequently at every 2KM.

I stopped around KM 95 and began to hike along the road. At this time of the morning (9am), the traffic was substantial and with the narrow shoulder, I was not entirely comfortable as oil tankers rumbled past within a foot or two. Nonetheless, the early birding was superb. I quickly spotted a Silver-beaked Tanager, Tropical Kingbird, Giant Cowbird, Dusky-green Oropendola, Saffron-crowned Tanager, Purplish Jay,  Lineated Woodpecker, Blue-capped Puffleg, Red-billed Parrot, Speckled Hummingbird, and Golden-eyed Flowerpiercer. 

Saffron-crowned Tanager (300mm, F5, 1/320, ISO-400)

As I worked up the road looking for a stone path (I found one that lead between two dilapidated houses and did not push further), a mixed flock of tanagers were feeding in the trees. These included: Saffron-crowned Tanager, Blue-winged Mountain Tanager, Bolivian Brushfinch, Chestnut-bellied Mountain-Tanager, and Blue-capped Tanager.

Blue-winged Mountain Tanager (300mm, F5, 1/320, ISO-400)

Continuing toward the Electric Substation trail, I found Blue-banded Toucanet and Inca Jay. Heading down the trail, I was treated with a Giant Cowbird actually perched on a cow.

Giant Cowbird (300mm, F7, 1/500, ISO-400)

As the trail made a sharp left turn, a pipeline from the right hillside crossed under the trail. This area was particularly birdy with Common Bush Tanager, Golden-eyed Flowerpiercer, Montane Foliage Gleaner and Sparkling Violetear. Walking back along the roadside, I spotted a Torrent Tryant on a boulder in a fast-moving stream and a pair of Red-billed Parrots flew overhead. From a turnout just after a rock face is (incorrectly) painted KM94, a female Masked Trogon flew into view and perched for several minutes.

Masked Trogon (300mm, F4, 1/160, ISO-400)

I stopped at the turnout where I was dropped off at 2:45pm and waited for a trufi or bus to Cochabamba. And waited. And waited some more. I sang to myself and used my two empty soda bottles to compose the first verse of a blues song. And then, I waited.

Unlike the morning, the traffic was much lighter in the afternoon and consisted mostly of tankers. When a trufi did pass, they inevitably gave a shake of their hand indicating they were full. This went on for two hours and I had already decided to accept a ride in any direction, so long as I returned to civilization. Eventually, a truck pulled over. The driver picks up empty bottles and drops off fresh cases of beer for the tiendas that line the road. He told me he couldn't take me to Cochabamba, but I asked if he would go as far as the trancha, which his route did, in fact, cover. Once at the trancha, I only waited five mintues for a bus from Santa Cruz to slow through the inspection point. I pointed at the bus driver and then at myself and then in the direction of Cochabamba. The driver nodded and I hauled over to the bus.

When I got in, the driver said I would have to stand as there were no seats. Not understanding the layout of the bus, I pointed towards what I thought was the stairs to the seats on the first level of the bus. The driver indicated that would be fine and I hopped over the passanger-side seat to find myself in the little cubby-hole that the drivers use for sleeping. This was just as good as a seat as far as I was concerned and I made myself comfortable.

Another gentleman eventually sat on the stairs leading up to the top level of the bus. He tried to engage me in conversation, but I understood nothing that he said. This is a strange fact of Spanish in Bolivia—it seems an all or nothing proposition. After much difficulty, I understood that he was asking from where I was coming. I replied with Miguelito, which, of course, he did not recognize. I explained a bit, which only led to the question of why I was there. Talking about Aves only led to another question of what about aves. I was lost until he pretended to take a picture.

This served as a real breakthrough, as I took out my camera and showed him some of the pictures I had taken. If this had been two days before, I would have been sunk, as few of my photos from San Miguel are of high quality. But, the photos of the tanagers and toucanet (tocancito) and woodpecker (carpenterio) were well received. Conversation proceeded with greater ease as I finally had the drift of the discussion to help me out. Even the driver started to chat about how he did not understand any of the English lyrics to his songs, but he liked them nonetheless.

It required almost 5 hours from the time I stopped birding to cover the 90 minute drive from the morning. Thinking that it would be impossible to catch the night bus to La Paz, I started to consider staying in Cochabamba for another night. Walking through the bus terminal, I noticed that busses to La Paz were running until almost midnight, leaving me plenty of time to return to the hotel, change clothes, repack my bag and grab a good final meal in the city. I decided to head back to La Estancia one last time, but noticed that Churrasco Tunari was actually open. Ben had mentioned this restaurant as having the best beef in the city so I altered my plans.

I was seated no more than 10 minutes when Ben and Kristina show up! They had been done in by the blockades and were only now leaving Cochabamba after a meal. We each ordered the Bife de Lomo and enjoyed a delicious meal. Around 9:45, we caught a cab to the bus terminal and I bought a ticket on the same bus on which they were traveling (Bs50).  

Bird Tally: 19 new, 17 lifers

Monday, June 13

[Note: it is now September, but things have finally settled enough to sort through my photos from this summer.]

I woke up at 5:30 determined to have a better go at San Miguel. Since there was an impending taxi blockade, my choice was either to leave Cochabamba early or not leave at all. I chose the former. The plan of attack was different given my unhappiness with the day before. First off, I took in a much better attitude. Second, I hired a taxi to take me to the bridge and would walk down to Liriuni on my own, hoping to catch a trufi from there. The driver was great to chat with as his Spanish was very clear and he was very understanding of my limited knowledge.

Arriving at the bridge at 6:45, I quickly became cold and walked upward toward sunlight. The birding was excellent from the start, as I located Tufted Tit-Tyrant, Black-hooded Sierra Finch, Grey-bellied Flowerpiercer, Cochabamba Mountain-Finch, Rusty-vented Canastero, Ash-breasted Sierra Finch, Rufous-bellied Saltator,  Bar-winged Cinclodes, Golden-billed Saltator, Cliff Flycatcher, Sparkling Violetear, Brown-capped Whitestart, Sierran Eleania, Black-winged Ground-Dove, Grey-hooded Parakeet, Mountain Caracara, Giant Hummingbird, Rufous-sided Warbling-Finch, Rufous-collared Sparrow, White-tailed Hawk, Bolivian Warbling-Finch, Band-tailed Sierra Finch, Hooded Siskin [NB: After sorting through my photographs, a bird I had initially considered a wren was actually a Puna Tapaculo, a very pleasant surprise]. I saw many of the same birds as I walked from the bridge (KM 461) to Liriuni (KM 451). Between KM 455 and KM457 there are numerous turnouts and the hillsides were fully blanketed in flowers yielding numerous Giant Hummingbirds and Sparkling Violetears. Near the bottom of the road, I picked up  Ringed Warbling-Finch, Paramo Seedeater, Baywing, and Chiguanco Thrush.

With little traffic, ample turnouts, and trails cut by herders with their llama, horses, cattle and alpacas, the walk down was an enjoyable hike, made more so by the yellows, oranges, pinks, purples and scarlets that painted the hills. At Liriuni, I walked down the turnoff toward the river hoping to find a Bolivian Blackbird, but they were not to be found. A number of families were doing their wash in the river, however.

Another Bolivian travel adventure ensued as the taxi drivers had organized a blockade of Cochabamba to protest new laws limiting the importation of old automobiles. A taxi from Liriuni (Bs30) got me as far as the main road between Cochabamba and La Paz. From there, I walked 4 or 5 km toward Cochabamba before getting past the last of the blockade. A taxi (Bs30) then got me the rest of the way to the hotel.

For a change of pace, I had dinner at Casa de Campos, also on Boulevard Recoleta. My waiter was quite taken with my smart-phone “Que lindo” and did not hesitate to ask for the chance to play with it. Google maps with its GPS was the most intriguing as he naturally used it to locate his home. He started to call over other waiters to show off his new toy. I knew a question was coming and I fully dreaded it, hoping it could be avoided. Of course, he eventually asked how much it cost. I grudgingly and somewhat guiltily replied $200, maybe equal to what he makes in a month. I ordered a plate of food which actually turned out to be a mountain of beef, chicken legs, hot dogs, chorizo, morcillo, and an assortment of offal. I knew something was wrong when I tasted the chalkiness of liver.

Bird Tally: 14 new, 14 lifers.