Thursday, May 31

I was up by 4:30 so we could leave in time for the Cock-of-the-Rock lek. I originally backed off this part of the tour, but changed my mind last night. In the end, I was the only one who decided to go, so I had the morning with Jose. We arrived just before 6 and hiked down to the overlook. Two Cocks were busy squawking and flapping their wings in display and a third Cock eventually joined them.

Around the same time, a cock joined us. A French one. With a big video camera. Now, I only had my cellphone, but still wanted to record the display. They paid no attention to this fact while setting up, absolutely unconcerned about the noise their chatter created while I was recording. When they were finally ready, the Cocks had already flown. Justice.

Angel, the owner, was able to attract a Giant Antpitta and her chick to the trail. He is quite famous for this, calling out “Maria” and tossing pieces of worm. It was amazing to watch the mother collect two or three pieces at a time and then place them in the squealing mouth of her brood. Moving further up the trail, Angel was able to coax 4 Dark-back Wood-quail to the trail, including one chick. They were rewarded with a banana, while we were rewarded with amazing views.

The next stop was the fruit stand, where Toucan Barbet, Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Blue-winged Mountain Tanager, Black-chinned Mountain Tanager and Sickle-winged Guan ate almost from his hand. A small break in the action sent us to photograph “Pepito” the Ochre-breasted Antpitta. The Hummingbird feeders were also excellent with many species common to Tandayapa, but also Empress Brilliant and Velvet-purple Coronet. As we walked over to the entrance for a snack, the Frenchman and his guide flushed Orange-breasted Fruiteater. The male remained tucked in a tree, but the female was calling actively in plain view.

Snacks included much deserved coffee and a delicious empanada along with a view across the valley on a perfectly clear day. On this front, today was absolutely unrivalled. One last stop sent us to another section of the property. We tramped through the forest on a narrow trail. And we waited while Angel whistled, tossing small pieces of wood trying to entice a Yellow-breasted Antpitta. We waited for almost 20 minutes and Angel had to return to his farm work (harvesting blackberries). Just as we were about to give up, our target arrived for excellent photographing.

We returned to the lodge for a nice lunch, packed the car and were on our way to Calacali for some birding in dry scrub. While not as productive as we would have liked, I was able to add a female Black-tailed Trainbearer and Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle to the list. At 4, we began the final leg back to Quito, a trip that netted at least 110 new species photographed.

8 Lifers

Wednesday, May 30

Today started even earlier than yesterday: in the car and on the road at 5 to get to Rio Silanche. I tried to sleep by largely failed. Why don’t back seats recline? I mean, they can go forward to lay flat, so why don’t they angle in the opposite direction?

We birded a long section of road. The birding was high quality. The road, however, was not. The combination of rain and traffic left it a soupy red clay. Ironically, this road led to a clay quarry that I can only presume provided the raw material to make other roads. Needless to say, I was glad I decided to come with a full pair of boots.

We quickly added Little Cuckoo and Lesser Greenlet along with Lemon-rumped Tanager, Scrub Blackbird, Shiny Cowbird (photographed later) and Variable Seedeater. A reclusive, but noisy Brown Wood-rail was our next big find. In a far tree, we located Red-rumped Woodpecker, but the area where we were standing also provided Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo, Sooty-headed Tyrannulet, Dull-colored Grassquit, Violet-bellied Hummingbird, and Yellow-tailed Oriole. Only a little farther on, a Crimson-backed Woodpecker hammered away, while Bay-headed Tanager and Yellow-tufted Dacnis also arrived. Our final big find along the road was a Western Woodhaunter, who allowed excellent views as he actively sang.

We continued to the preserve by car, but passed a farm field that had Masked Water-tyrant, Shiny Cowbird and Pacific Hornero. I also noticed a bird with long, thin wings that Jose identified as a White-collared Swift (photographed later). I could not believe that a swift could be that large.

At the reserve, the big attraction is a canopy watchtower where you can enjoy passing flocks at eye-level. Just sitting there produced White-vented Euphonia, Orange-bellied Euphonia, Bay-headed Tanager, Yellow-thighed Dacnis, Scarlet-browed Tanager, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, Purple Honeycreeper, Ruddy Dove, Dusky Pigeon, Masked Tityra, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Chestnut-mandibled Toucan, Choco Toucan and Pale-billed Aracari.

It is worth mentioning two things. First, there were again several tanagers I missed, including Grey-and-gold and Tawny-capped. Second, a Choco Trogon arrived to relieve me from relying on cell phone pictures. Crimson-rumped Toucanet provided a similar service.

We moved to the trails, picking up a Purple-chested Hummingbird at the start. I missed getting a photo of the Sicklebill and a mixed group of antbirds (Pacific Antwren, Checker-throated Antwren and Western Slaty Antshrike) refused to descend into visibility. In general, the day was dead from here out, though we did find Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant, Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher, Plain Xenops and Slaty-capped Flycatcher along the road.

After lunch, we climbed the tower again. While the number of birds was limited, we did get good views of Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Masked Tityra, and Western White-tailed Trogon. Another go at the trails with just myself and Jose was again frustratingly bare.

23 Lifers

Tuesday, May 29

Damn me! Damn me straight to hell! My stupidity never ceases to amaze, but we will get to that eventually.

Today started even earlier than yesterday. The alarm went off at 4:30 for 5am breakfast. We were on the road to Milpe by 5:30 and birding not too soon after the sun came up. We started in the parking lot as flock after flock came through. I was again overwhelmed by the sheer numbers of tanagers in the tree tops, unable to really focus on one bird for fear of missing others. This is a frustrating issue for which I have yet to find a solution. Nevertheless, I did get a decent view of a Swallow Tanager, followed by a Choco Tyrannulet (split from Golden-faced Tyrannulet). I also added a Blue-necked Tanager.

The hummingbird feeders were active all day, allowing for Green Thorntail, Green-crowned Woodnyph, White-whiskered  Hermit, White-necked Jacobin, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Green-crowned Brilliant, and Andean Emerald. While watching the feeders, a group of Maroon-tailed Parakeet landed in nearby trees and an Ornate Flycatcher landed nearby. Next, a male Collared Trogon appeared, then a pair of Pale-mandibled Aracari.

When then moved to a field across the street where White-thighed Swallow were swooping about. Thankfully, some were also resting on a wire. A  Ruddy Pigeon was perched high in a tree across the field, but I did not get a chance to see the Rufous-necked Tanager near it. A flock of Bronze-winged Parrots passed overhead, as did a single Mealy Parrot. Orange-bellied Euphonia, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, Rusty-margined Flycatcher and Tropical Flycatcher also presented themselves, along with a Fawn-breasted Tanager. A pair of Guayaquil Woodpeckers were busy tapping away on a dead tree on the other side of the field, but they eventually passed quite close to us, allowing for excellent views, if only mediocre photos. Around this time, I noticed my camera battery went from full (3 bars) to not full (2 bars).

Returning to the trails, we quickly found a Pale-vented Thrush, Slaty-capped Tyrannulet, and Golden-naped Tanager. Moving deeper, a Buff-fronted Foliagegleaner moved up a tree with a Spotted Woodcreeper, Choco Warbler, Ornate Flycatcher, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, and Dusky Bush-tanager in the same mixed flock. We then grabbed a fabulous male Golden-winged Manakin, who perched nicely for an extended period. He held my attention for a good while, but we eventually moved on to locating a pair of Club-winged Manakin. We also came across a Stripe-throated Hermit

The next section of trail offered another large mixed-flock including: Yellow-throated Bush-tanager, Scaled Pygmy-Tyrant, Choco Toucan, Black-crowned Tityra, Golden-hooded Tanager, Choco Warbler, Golden Tanager, Spotted Woodcreeper, White-shouldered Tanager, and Ornate Flycatcher. Sometime during this segment, my battery went from two bars to one bar and I knew I was in trouble.

Lunch was spent watching the activity at the hummingbird feeders, but largely avoiding photographs except to capture the Hermit. After, we headed a short distance to Milpe Gardens. It started to rain, so we camped out under pavilion and looked down on the hummingbird feeders, which had great action. A cute, but damp puppy sauntered over to make friends.

Eventually, we hit the trails, which did not disappoint. Our first hit was Guira Tanager, followed by Wedge-billed Woodcreeper. At this point, I believed I was up to 998 bird species photographed since I started with a Hairy Woodpecker in Lodi, Wisconsin. As it would turn out, I did not yet know that I had managed to photograph Yellow-throated Bush-tanager earlier in the day. Thus, number 1000 would turn out to be the beautiful Spotted Nightengale-Wren.  Not a bad milestone. Of course, at the time, I believe this was number 999 and that Slaty Antwren was the special bird.

A good flock kicked up that included all three foliagegleaners: Lineated, Buff-fronted and Scaly-throated. A Russet Antshrike was also active and the female Collared Trogon made an appearance. Moving on, we found the White-bearded Manakin. Another healthy flock produced Rufous-rumped Antwren and Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner. I knew my battery was dangerously low, but an Ornate Flycatcher was sitting up in a perfect position, so I snapped away. Then, coming around a corner, a Scaly-throated Foliagegleaner confronted us to defend its nest. This was too good to pass up and I let it rip…until the battery died—why does the camera need to rub this in by using red text? A pretty good way to go, but there was still lots of birding left (it was 2:50), and no way to take a picture.

Well, the battery died until we found a Pacific Flatbill. I took the battery out, shook it, licked the contact, threw her back in, focused the bird manually, turned on the camera and somehow managed to get more shots until getting it died again. I repeated the exercise and was able to steal one manually focused shot of a Plain-brown Woodcreeper.

I used up most of the remaining juice on a White-whiskered Puffbird. Had I paid attention, I would have ignored this one, which I had previously seen in Panama, but I thought I was shooting a White-faced Nunbird. This left me only a few shots of a Crimson-Rumped Toucanet before the battery died for good. This was unfortunate, since the toucanet eventually moved into an open patch to feed. Good locks, but awful pictures.

The final indignity was coming around the corner to see a Choco Trogon. As a last resort, I pulled out my cell-phone to grab a picture and some shaky video. Still counts, right?

Lifers: 31

Monday, May 28

Today started at 5:30 so that we could be in the bird blind by sun-up. This proved exceptionally productive, yielding Scaled Antpitta, Uniform Antshrike, Immaculate Antbird, White-tipped Dove, White-throated Quail-Dove, Chestnut-capped Brushfinch and Streak-headed Treehunter. After breakfast, we gathered our things for a day in the Upper Tandayapa Valley. Just as we were getting into the SUV, a Smokey-brown Woodpecker made an appearance—a bird I had barely missed my last time here.

On the drive, Jose found a much better view of a Cock-of-the-Rock just off the roadside. We stopped near the entrance to the side road I walked in March, but we spent the remainder of the morning walking along the Old Nono-Mindo Road.

As with my previous attempts, this was a frustrating day. The light is almost always terrible and the birds stay largely in the canopy. By the end of the day, I have missed as many birds as I have shot and ache from head to toe. Nonetheless, the day was very productive and I should focus on the many birds I was able to find (really, the guide was able to find and I was able to photograph).

The first good find was a Golden-naped Tanager that allowed a much better view than previously. I noticed a lot of activity in a tree across a field, which resulted in a healthy mixed flock and my first of many frustrations. I struggled mightily just to manage a terrible set of photos of Russet-crowned Warbler. Returning to the road, I spotted a White-bellied Woodstar and later found a pair of Grey-breasted Wood-wren

Continuing along the road, a new mixed flock appeared including a Yellow-bellied Chat Tyrant, Orange-bellied Euphonia and Capped Conebill. Jose had been using the call of an Pygmy Owl to flush up birds, but to our great surprise, it actually produced a Andean Pygmy-Owl, who as subsequently swarmed by other birds.

We dipped on the Tanager Finch, but soon after located a pair of Powerful Woodpecker. Near the gas pumping station another mixed flock—always with a Collared Inca and a pair of Spectacled Whitestart in the lead—was moving through and included Dusky Bush-Tanager, White-tailed Tyrannulet, Brown-capped Vireo, Streaked Tuftedcheek, Flavescent Warbler and Cinnamon Flycatcher. I missed out on a photo of a Mountain Wren. A little further on we found a Grass-green Tanager.

We started the drive back to the lodge around noon, but were soon distracted by another feeding flock. This generated a great diversity of species in a location that actually allowed for a good view at eye level, rather than staring blindly into the overcast sky or through a fog. This led to the best views of Tuftedcheek, Bush-Tanager, Western Hemispingus, and Black-crowned Warbler. I also saw a Sepia-colored Wren, but was unable to get a photograph.

After lunch and a nap, we hiked the trails around the Lodge, which netted a wonderful photo of a Cock-of-the-Rock along with Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner, Whiskered Wren, Tawny-bellied Hermit, Ochre-breasted Antpitta, Wedge-billed Hummingbird, and Toucan Barbet.

21 Lifers

Sunday, May 27

Today began the first day of my first organized birding tour. I woke up at 4:30 to be ready in the lobby for breakfast at 5. After a plate of fruit and some coffee, we (myself and a woman from Los Angeles) were off to Yanacocha with our guide, Jose, and driver, Hugo.

When I first tried to bird Yanacocha in March, I made it about an hour before becoming drenched. Today, we were graced with incredibly blue skies until early afternoon. On the road to the reserve, I grabbed a picture of a Southern Yellow Grosbeak, which I had actually seen before in fleeting glimpses, but had never bothered to identify. As I was setting up the tripod, a number of birds were called including lifers like Black-chested Mountain Tanager, but for these I was only able to grab a quick look while they flew farther up-mountain.

Properly ready to bird, the first hummingbird was a Shining Sunbeam. We then encountered a mixed flock of Masked Flowerpiercer and Glossy Flowerpiercer, followed by Supercilliated Hemispingus. Jose recognized the call of an Ocellated Tapaculo, which did not allow a sustained look, but clearly revealed its dazzling collection of spots. A Stripe-headed Brushfinch also made an appearance as we hoped for another shot at the Tapaculo. Coming around a corner, a female Barred Fruiteater was perched beautifully.

Around this time, I was starting to feel three cups of coffee assault my bladder. I let Jose go ahead and I dipped down a side trail with thoughts of finding a rarity, but mostly thinking about how good it would feel to pee. Midstream, the endemic Black-chested Puffleg appeared and calmly perched. I pushed as hard as my muscles would allow and ran back to grab the camera. After a good set of shots, the bird flew away and I called to Jose to confirm my suspicions. We were almost 90% sure we had the Black-chested and returned to the trail hoping for another look. After a few minutes, he reappeared, his violet vent and neck glistening.

More hummingbirds followed as we moved along the trail and toward the hummingbird feeders, notably Tyrian Metaltail. We also came across White-tailed Tyrannulet. At the feeders, we were treated to Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Sword-billed Hummingbird, Sapphire-vented Puffleg, Golden-chested Puffbird, Great Sapphirewing, and Mountain Velvetbreast.

Our attention to hummingbirds was momentarily disrupted by Jose, who coaxed an exceptionally curious juvenile Rufous Antpitta from the forest understory. At some points, the antpitta was so close that I could not focus the lens, passing between my legs as I struggled to keep the tripod from falling over.

The walk back netted the male Barred Fruiteater, Scarlet-breasted Mountain Tanager, Blue-winged Mountain Tanager and Hooded Mountain Tanager, along with a flock of Rufous Wren. After a well-deserved lunch, we got to watch one of the most bizarre spectacles. The ranger whistled a random tune and tossed pieces of worm to Tawny Antpitta who seemed as well trained as any dog.

On the ride to Tandayapa Lodge, our base for the trip, we stopped on numerous occasions either to walk a promising stretch of road or to track down an interesting sound. This yielded many good species including: Plain-tailed Wren, Azara’s Spinetail, Spectacled Whitestart, White-tailed Tyrannulet, Slate-collared Redstart, White-capped Dipper, Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant, Capped Conebill, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Sickle-winged Guan, Montane Woodcreeper, Turquoise Jay, Plushcap (no picture). Arriving at the Lodge, the feeders were alive as usual, but I was able to add a Green-crowned Brilliant to the list of new hummingbirds.

23 Lifers

Saturday, April 14

K and I made an overnight trip with Delta down to the central coast. First, this gave me a chance to see Corpus. We drove through downtown and then stopped for lunch. Next, we came up Padre Island, stopping at Mustang Island S.P. There were a good mix of shorebirds including Willet, Ruddy Turnstone and Sanderling, whose quick forays on rapid fire legs entertained the other bi-peds.

The wind created some harsh currents, so we just walked along the beach. Delta must have felt comfortable, because she readily trotted into the water. This obviously left her caked in salt and sand, so she got a quick bath before we headed out for Aransas Pass. I had never come from this direction, so I had my first ride on the ferry that connects Port Aransas (Port A) with the mainland.

We dropped our things and then set out to find a kayak rental. The wind was terrible, but we thought it was worth a shot. We passed a place advertising kayaks, knocked on the door and the guy seemed happy anyone wanted to be on the water. For $15, we had a kayak for 2 hours. Paddling was incredibly difficult, and K was saddled with a sit-on-top. I would have switched, but Delta was seated between my legs, and I didn't know whether that would actually be more treacherous. Nonetheless, any time on the water is good time, though Delta was again wet, salty and sandy.

On Sunday, we headed over to Aransas NWR. On the way, I noticed a tern kiting along the roadside. This justifiably raised my hopes and after a U-turn, I was able to know Gull-billed Tern off my list. While the rest of the state had been virtually inundated the past few months (Brazos County was officially out of drought stage), the coast had seen none of the precipitation. As a result, the alligators were largely absent, very few marsh birds were around and the mosquitos were unbearable. We did not stay long, which is a shame since Aransas is one of my favorite spring spots for nature.

Wednesday, March 19

Yesterday was spent enjoying the alleys of Cuzco, shopping at the various artisan markets. Today began my four-day trek of the Inca Trail to the sacred city of Macchu Pichu. I did not actually get to do much birding during the trek because it just isn’t an easy stroll. Waking early to push up mountain passes and flail down hillsides is not conducive to paying attention to Sierra Finches. There is much I can say about the experience: the awesome beauty of the landscape, the rush that follows cresting two passes, the comradery that quickly developed amongst our diverse band of trekkers. I am not sure any of those descriptions would do it justice, so if you are reading this, listen to Phil Knight: Just Do It.

As for the birds, over the course of the trek, I was able to see Green-and-white Hummingbird, Sparkling Violetear, Band-tailed Seedeater, Plain-breasted Hawk, Mountain Caracara, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager, White-winged Black-Tyrant, Bare-faced Ground-Dove (replacing the picture on my cell-phone from La Paz), Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant, Giant Hummingbird, Bar-winged Cinclodes, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Black-throated Flowerpiercer, Moustached Flowerpiercer, Mitred Parakeet and Plumbeous Sierra-Finch. 

White-winged Black-Tyrant, male

Bar-winged Cinclodes

Plain-breasted Hawk

Mustached Flowerpiercer

Plumbeous Sierra-Finch

Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant

Green-and-white Hummingbird

Mitred Parakeet