Thursday, May 31

I was up by 4:30 so we could leave in time for the Cock-of-the-Rock lek. I originally backed off this part of the tour, but changed my mind last night. In the end, I was the only one who decided to go, so I had the morning with Jose. We arrived just before 6 and hiked down to the overlook. Two Cocks were busy squawking and flapping their wings in display and a third Cock eventually joined them.

Around the same time, a cock joined us. A French one. With a big video camera. Now, I only had my cellphone, but still wanted to record the display. They paid no attention to this fact while setting up, absolutely unconcerned about the noise their chatter created while I was recording. When they were finally ready, the Cocks had already flown. Justice.

Angel, the owner, was able to attract a Giant Antpitta and her chick to the trail. He is quite famous for this, calling out “Maria” and tossing pieces of worm. It was amazing to watch the mother collect two or three pieces at a time and then place them in the squealing mouth of her brood. Moving further up the trail, Angel was able to coax 4 Dark-back Wood-quail to the trail, including one chick. They were rewarded with a banana, while we were rewarded with amazing views.

The next stop was the fruit stand, where Toucan Barbet, Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Blue-winged Mountain Tanager, Black-chinned Mountain Tanager and Sickle-winged Guan ate almost from his hand. A small break in the action sent us to photograph “Pepito” the Ochre-breasted Antpitta. The Hummingbird feeders were also excellent with many species common to Tandayapa, but also Empress Brilliant and Velvet-purple Coronet. As we walked over to the entrance for a snack, the Frenchman and his guide flushed Orange-breasted Fruiteater. The male remained tucked in a tree, but the female was calling actively in plain view.

Snacks included much deserved coffee and a delicious empanada along with a view across the valley on a perfectly clear day. On this front, today was absolutely unrivalled. One last stop sent us to another section of the property. We tramped through the forest on a narrow trail. And we waited while Angel whistled, tossing small pieces of wood trying to entice a Yellow-breasted Antpitta. We waited for almost 20 minutes and Angel had to return to his farm work (harvesting blackberries). Just as we were about to give up, our target arrived for excellent photographing.

We returned to the lodge for a nice lunch, packed the car and were on our way to Calacali for some birding in dry scrub. While not as productive as we would have liked, I was able to add a female Black-tailed Trainbearer and Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle to the list. At 4, we began the final leg back to Quito, a trip that netted at least 110 new species photographed.

8 Lifers