Tuesday, June 21

I was up and out for a cab to take me to Villa Fatima (Bs15) at 6:35. Busses into the yungas leave from Villa Fatima in the north of La Paz, not the main station in the central district. I wanted to catch an early trufi, but ended up waiting for the van to fill up anyway. We did not actually leave the corner until after 7:30. The ride up and over La Cumbre was spectacular and I was dropped off at the junction of the old and new roads to Coroico by 8:20. This was slightly further than I needed, but walking the start of the “death road” provided amazing views of both snow-capped Andean peaks and the cloud forest in the valley below.

This section of the road, along with the new road just before the junction was also very productive with Violet-throated Starfrontlet, Fulvous-headed Brush-Finch, Bar-winged Cinclodes, Amethyst-throated Sunangel, Azara's Spinetail, Hooded Mountain Tanager, Masked Flowerpiercer and Superciliaried Hemispingus. About this time, a steady rain started to develop, which required some reorganizing of gear. I found a drain-pipe under the highway that served the trick. Showers continued off-and-on for the next hour, but did not greatly affect birding as I found a Rufous-breasted Chat-Tyrant.

The walk downhill back to Cotapata was easy with a decent-sized shoulder, deep cement ditches and numerous turnouts with trails that led into the valley. I stumbled down a stone path on the right side of the road that led to someplace I was not supposed to be. I apologized to the gentleman and beat a hasty retreat back to the road. The second sighting of a Rufous-breasted Chat Tyrant was not worth the trip. As I continued walking, I spotted Brown-backed Chat-Tyrant, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker

Passing the gas station on my right, I followed a path around the bathroom building. A wide path lead through a fence to land which appeared to belong to the station. Just to the left of this, a two track path lead upward through forest. I followed this path, guessing it was the one mentioned in my notes. After a short distance, the path forked and I took the left as a flock of Hooded Mountain Tanager seemed to auger well. As the path began to descend into the valley, mixed flocks would flutter through groups of trees. In one, I found a Scarlet-bellied Mountain Tanager, Blue-and-black Mountain Tanager, Spectacled Whitestart, Rufous-capped Thornbill, Orange-browed Hemispingus, and Giant Thrush. On the hike out, I also spotted a Moustached Flowerpiercer.

I reached the gas station near 1:30 and the while the sun was not out, it was fighting its way through the dense clouds. Unfortunately, this did not last long. First, fog rolled over the road, greatly decreasing the chances that someone would see me. Then, it started to rain. Then, it started to rain harder. The thick fog made it impossibly dangerous to try the 9km walk to the trancha at Undavai. As I got progressively wetter, it seemed that my chances for a ride were becoming progressively worse. After more than an hour, I was just too wet to stand in the open, so I ducked for cover next to the gas station. As I waited out the rain, a girl brought me a cup of hot coffee to warm me up. Then a gentlemen suggested I try the other end of the gas station. The coffee lifted my spirits and the suggestion paid-off in a couple of minutes as a jeep with two men stopped to offer a ride.

I will not bike the death road on this trip, but absent a ride through the Columbian Andes with Camila's brothers, this was as death-defying as I'd like to go on 4 wheels. Nevertheless, when the two guys saw how wet and cold I was, they pulled over to find a blanket for me from the back of the jeep. It was only after 15 minutes that I realized that the driver had only one finger on his left hand and his right hand was almost never on the wheel. As we flew around corners on wet asphalt through soupy fog around slower moving traffic, I have never desired a stronger finger in my life.

We reached La Cumbre to find a celebration of the Aymara New Year, which coincides with the shortest day of the year (admittedly, this is the 23^rd of June, but who can keep track). There was a band of drummers and people were dancing in large groups. By now, I was mostly dry and enjoyed the festivities as a man encouraged me to do a little jig. Of course, I complied. They drove me all the way to Murillo Plaza, only a short walk from the Hostel. In the end, I had forgotten the soggy misery of waiting for a ride.

Bird tally: 17 new, 17 lifers 

Friday, June 17

Over dinner, BK and I decided that we would hike La Cumbre the following day. Given my horrific night of chills, sweats, aches and runs, I really doubted that I would be able to make it. Nevertheless, I convinced myself that my brain was stronger than my large intestine. I willed myself out of bed at 7:45, quickly got my things together and forced down some pancakes despite the general nausea whenever I put anything in my mouth. BK arrived at 8:30 and we were on our way via taxi (Bs80).

La Cumbre is a beautiful area in which to hike. There are accessible lakes and bogs assuming you have the lungs and will to walk uphill at 4800 meters (15,000'). BK were both in much better conditioning for this type of hike and I often lagged far behind, reminding myself of the time when I ran up Mt. Saint Helens and Mt. Ranier. Of course, neither were at nearly the same height, this by far the highest I had ever been outside an airplane.

Laguna, La Cumbre, Bolivia

This has to easily be one of the most beautiful and inspiring places I have birded. It is quite obvious that you are hiking in an unique environment. While the number of species is fairly small, it is impressive that so much lives in such a barren, yet beautiful setting.

The first two lagunas offered Andean gull, Giant Coot, White-winged Diuca Finch, White-winged Cinclodes, Crested Duck, Andean Goose, Andean Swallow and Silvery Grebe. Following the jeep track around the back side of the laguna toward the crest of the mountain behind it, I located a pair of Rufous-bellied Seedsnipes. The bogs at the back end of the second laguna yielded Puna Ground-Tyrant. Waiting for a bus to take us back to La Paz, I spotted a Red Shoveler, Cinereous Ground-Tyrant, and Spectacled Teal.

White-winged Duica Finch

Rufous-bellied Seedsnipe

Andean Goose

The wait for a ride was much shorter than in Miguelito, as a bus to La Paz stopped to let us on. There were more passengers than seats, but the problem was made infinitely worse by two women who sat at the top step. Despite acres of space in the aisle to stand, they clogged up the works, leaving the three of us to perch on whatever chunk of space we could manage in the stairway. An uncomfortable ride eventually brought us to El Alto, where we took a taxi to the terminal.

At this point, all I wanted was a siesta. My body hurt and I was starting to feel ill. But, BK are both doctors and had been researching my illness in their spare time. They offered to take me to a pharmacy to see if a different medication from the one prescribed back in the States would do the trick. While I was exhausted and grumpy, I knew this option was better in the long run. The amazing thing about Bolivian pharmacies is: you don't need a prescription. We just sauntered in, asked for Titidazol and the pharmacist handed it to us. And I was able to buy hospital strength Ibuprofen on the spot. All this for less than $7. Just holding the boxes of medicine had a palliative effect and I readily agreed to lunch at Subway. The ibuprofen has already taken care of the headache and joint/muscle pain. Lets hope the antiprotozoan also has the desired effect.

Bird tally: 10 new, 10 lifers