Sunday, March 11

I was out by 5:45 before the sun came up. Ben had mentioned that the driveway was a productive area and I slowly made my way downhill. A Slate-throated Whitestart was flycatching from the ground near some coffee plants. As the sun arose, a mixed flock of birds crossed the drive below the lodge, but I could only identify a White-winged Brushfinch. Somewhat frustrated by this poor start to the day, I made my way back to the lodge, picking up a female Barred Becard along the way. A Dusky-capped Flycatcher and a Golden-crowned Flycatcher were also perched near the lodge.

After breakfast, I planned to drive to the Upper Tandayapa Valley with Ben and just needed to run back to the room for my rain jacket. I walked up to the roof on a whim to see if I could spot a Cock-of-the-Rocks, but was instead greeted by a Golden-crowned Quetzal. When he flushed, I noticed a Tawny Breasted Hermit near some Heliconia. Since I didn’t get a picture, I walked over hoping he would return. Though he did not, a Masked Trogon landed no more than 5’ away. While I had seen the female in Bolivia, this was the first time I had seen the male.

Masked Trogon-male

Golden-headed Quetzal

After the trogon flushed, I noticed a Golden Tanager in a banana tree. This had been a big miss the previous day, so I was happy for the extended view. This was just the beginning of a large mixed flock of tanagers, including Silver-throated Tanager, Metallic-green Tanager, Golden-naped Tanager, and Beryl-spangled Tanager.

Golden Tanager

Finally getting started with Ben, we drove up the Nono-Mindo Road. I saw a bird flush 3-4km up the road, so I pulled over. This yielded Long-tailed Antbird, a first for both Ben and myself. We stopped again below Bella Vista for a spot that is typically good for Cock-of-the-Rock, but had no luck.

Reaching a side-road about 10km from the lodge, we parked the car and walked the road. This provided a good view of the Collared Inca. Things were slow and we dipped on a side trail. On the way out, we hit the jackpot. A huge mixed-flock of just about everything came through. Unfortunately, the sky was totally overcast, creating an impossibly bright, white backdrop that made it impossible to identify birds either with the camera or binoculars. This was incredibly frustrating, but we still were able to see Streaked Tuftedcheek, Pearled Treerunner, and White-sided Flowerpiercer, Dusky-faced Tanager. Unfortunately, I missed the Toucan Barbet that Ben located.

Collared Inca

On our walk back to the car, we found three beautiful species: Turquoise Jay, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, and Plate-mandibled Mountain Toucan. Stopping again for the Cock-of-the-Rock, we flushed a raptor, but were unable to identify it.

Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan

During lunch, a number of birds came to the papaya feeder, allowing for great shots of Red-headed Barbet, Thick-billed Euphonia and the male Lemon-rumped Tanager. I then enjoyed a 4 hour nap, followed by dinner, conversation and Bananagrams with the group of hummingbird photographers.

Saturday, March 10

The binding constraint today was picking up the rental car. The office at the airport did not open until 8am, so I arrived at 7:30 to be the first in line. I am incompetent and do not adequately know how to operate a manual transmission. Of course, when the office finally opens, they don’t have any 4-wheel drive automatics. Thus, they need to send me to another Avis location. This would all be fine if I were in Kansas City or even Los Angeles. But, I’m not. I’m in Quito, Ecuador.

I have only enough knowledge to get from the airport to the old Nono-Mindo Road. It takes me all of one block to make an illegal left hand turn. There is no sign alerting me to the fact that left turns are not allowed, only the finger waving of very angry drivers coming from the opposite direction. Getting out of Quito was chaotic and would have been a disaster had it not been Saturday morning with minimal traffic.

By a combination of luck and the Google Maps app on my phone (GPS still works on a cell phone even if you have put it in Airplane Mode), I managed to make it out of downtown, through some barrios and onto the Ecorouta del Quinde. This remarkably well signed road used to be one of two routes between Quito and the Pacific coast. Largely obsolete because of a highway built about 20 years ago, the cobblestone/paved/dirt road is still a wonderful way to get into the Tandayapa Valley. Centered around Mindo, this is one of the prime ecotourism locations in Ecuador outside of the Galapagos Islands and thus a likely component of a potential study-abroad program.

My first detour was to Yanacocha Reserve. The 10km turnoff definitely required a high-clearance vehicle and the roadside bushes offered Great Thrush, Rufous-collared Sparrow and other common species. The dirt road was potholed throughout, with the deepest earning large stone monuments that forced me to swerve and squeeze by. I paid $15 at the office and watched Sparkling Violet-ear and Giant Hummingbird at the feeders. The main trail (Inca Trail) is wide and I was hoping to catch a couple mixed-flocks pass through.

First to appear was a Masked Flowerpiercer, readily identified by a black mask and red iris. In the same set of bushes, I also spotted a Rufous-crowned Brushfinch. This is the northern counterpart to the (previously conspecific) Bolivian Brushfinch I had seen at ApaApa.  On the other side of the path, a Spectacled Whitestart flew through some higher branches along with a Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager. Farther on, a Glossy Flowerpiercer was feeding from some flowers, then found a perch from which to sing.

Glossy Flowerpiercer

A number of hummingbirds made an appearance, including the Sapphire-vented Puffleg and a Rainbow-bearded Thornbill. By this time, a heavy fog had run up the valley, eliminating the possibility of high quality photographs. I dipped onto a side trail that descended into the cloud forest below the Inca Trail. This was beautiful and actually quite birdy, but the dense foliage made it impossible for me to actually identify or photograph what I was seeing. When I eventually popped out, a mist had developed that quickly turned to drizzle and then a downpour. I hurried back to the car, but not before getting fairly soaked.

The road back to Nono-Mindo held up fairly well given the rain. From the Yanacocha turnout, the Nono-Mindo Road is paved for about 15km before it too becomes a dirt road. As the rain continued to fall, the quality of roadway deteriorated. It was impossible to judge the depth of potholes once they filled with water and the muddy surface became as slick as snow. In one spot, a deep pothole sent the SUV into a fishtail, but after three or four turns of the wheel, I was back in control.

Despite this, the way is exceptionally scenic and for the last 10km runs along river. There was very little traffic in the other direction, which was convenient given the endless supply of blind, narrow corners. It struck me that with Quito below the equator, it was possible that I was going to cross into another hemisphere. Looking to the GPS in the car, I was just 2” below the equator. Then 1”. And then it read: 0 0’ 0”.

This was so very cool to me, that I hadn’t noticed the small truck coming in the other direction. A head-on crash would have been a great way to celebrate, but both he and I glided toward the side of the road and passed with room to spare. From here on, the road became quiet bad and I was very much looking forward to reaching Tandayapa Lodge.

And then I reached the lodge. And saw the steep, and now slick, road up to the car park. And I was no longer looking forward to anything. But, I made it and was almost immediately struck by the number of hummingbirds. Oh, the hummingbirds. So many at the back feeders I could not possibly count them. With the help of Ben, the volunteer guide, I eventually figured out what I was seeing: Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Booted Raquettail, Violet-tailed Sylph, and Woodstar.

Violet-tailed Sylph male

Violet-tailed Sylph female

Booted Raquettail

Purple-bibbed Whitetip

Outside the other side of the lodge, a large piece of papaya attracted a number of birds, including the elusive Red-headed Barbet and a pair of Blue-winged Mountain Tanager. A Golden-olive Woodpecker was also siddling up a tree. Bouncing back to the hummingbird feeders with a guide in hand, I also spotted Buff-tailed Coronet, Andean Emerald, Fawn-breasted Brilliant and Brown Violet-ear. Bouncing back to the papaya, a flock of Red-billed Parrots allowed for a decent photo, perched close rather than flying in the distance. A Swainson’s Thrush, Lemon-rumped Tanager, and Buff-throated Saltator were also around.  

Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager

Red-headed Barbet

Buff-tailed Coronet

The rain began to let up, so I moved my stuff into a room several hundred meters from the lodge. From my window, I could see a resting Common Potoo. Walking back to the lodge for dinner, I also spotted a Slate-throated Whitestart and Brown Inca.

Brown Inca

Friday, March 9

Having gotten my bearings, today I met with the heads of the Tourism Management and Economics departments at PUCE, Pontificia Universidad Catolica del Ecuador. Very productive. While I took a cab to the university, I leisurely strolled back to the hostel. Quito does not have the safest reputation and I wanted to get a feel for the area around the university. I felt very safe, at least during the day.

That evening, I also walked from the hostel to dinner at Theatrum, located in the Opera House. The streets were bustling and again, I felt very safe. A tour group that was heading to the Galapagos Islands took most of the tables, but they had arranged for a member of the company to give a performance during dinner. The set varied from Verdi to Sinatra. My only complaint is that the long, red drapes prevented you from looking out on the square below. Otherwise, a combination of very good food and wonderful ambiance. I was very careful on the walk back, following right behind a mother with her child, and then two couples, until I was in sight of the police who regularly patrol the Old Town.

Thursday, March 8

The trip actually started yesterday, but recounting a day spent in DFW and MIA is hardly the stuff of a Pulitzer. The airport in Quito is ridiculous. Not so much the airport itself, as the decision to have 4 immigration on duty when 3 international flights arrive. I easily spent an hour waiting, and I was in the first row of Economy of the first plane to land. I didn't get to the hostel until 1am, but the view from the rooftop terrace was worth it.

Today was my day to explore Quito and it is certainly charming. I had expected a setting similar to La Paz or even Bogota, but the mountains that define the valley are neither as large nor as imposing.  Quito is also substantially lower in elevation than La Paz, and thus significantly warmer.

The Old Town is a compact mix of church spires and squares that invite strolling. I have had my fill of cathedrals from travelling around Europe and decided to only visit the inside of the Compania. Built by the Jesuits, it is Baroque in all its grandeur. Most interesting to me was the fresco depicting Hell on the south wall. The punishment for various mortal sins are vividly illustrated: the drunk is forced to drink a vat of boiling hot water; goblins gnaw on the tongue of the gossip; fiery liquid is poured upon the genitals of the lecher. It is impressive from a modern perspective and it must have been all-together frightening for an Andean coming to market in the early 1700's to experience the awe of the gilded interior and then the dread of eternal anguish that awaited them if they failed to follow the word of Christ spread by his Spanish missionaries.

After re-emerging into the equatorial sun, I continued to the Museo de la Cuidad (the City Museum). Housed in a former hacienda, the museum does an amazing job depicting the growth of the city from Incan outpost, through colonial center of the Audencia of Ecuador, to capital of the nation. On the floor of one room, intricate wood-work was used to create a map of the early colonial city. A security guard offered his services as a guide in return for a chance to practice his English. In the courtyard, a restaurant provided an excellent lunch and the opportunity to soak in the surroundings. Overall, an enjoyable stop for the afternoon.

I returned to the hostel, enjoyed a good nap and then headed for one of Quito's recommended restaurants: Zazu. The chef offered a seven course tasting menu, which was very hit or miss. When they hit, though, it really was spectacular.

Ecuador and Peru 2012

The search for study abroad opportunities in Latin America continues. There was very little time between getting back from Costa Rica and leaving for Quito, and some of that required a return to New York. 

This nearly 3 week stretch will send me to Quito, Guayaquil, Lima and Cuzco to speak with colleagues at other universities. There will be time for birding on the weekends and early in the morning. And of course, during my trek to Macchu Piccu. If I can pick up 80-100 new birds, that would be a nice haul.   

Costa Rica wrap-up

Coming soon

Sunday, February 26

I did not sleep well and only reluctantly got out of bed at 7am to try again for a view of the male quetzal. The trail to the nesting hole offered Spotted Barbtail, but once again only two tail feathers were on display. Many of the same birds from yesterday also appeared. Overhead, the Central American variety of Red-tailed Hawk (bright rufous tail, but clean white breast) made a few wide circles before disappearing behind the ridge. I again left for breakfast without seeing the male, but returned later when everyone else had left. My patience was rewarded with an outstanding view of the female from several angles, though I never did see the male full-on. My last new bird of the trip appeared in the brush on my way out, Yellowish Flycatcher, along with Tanwy-capped Nightingale Thrush, Philadelphia Vireo and Common Brush-finch.

Resplendant Quetzal female

The women working at Suenos packed a lunch for me and I headed to Savegre to grab a ride up to the Pan-American Highway. As we ascended, it became increasingly misty. Memories of getting soaked in Cotapata sprang to mind, but thankfully the bus stop was covered with a tin roof. It took some time for a bus to San Jose to pass, giving me plenty of time to observe Ticos. For instance, it caught my attention that a large trailer was charging up the mountain far faster than those that had preceded it. I then noticed a large sticker of a hemp leaf on his window. A second truck was decorated with a large mural of Moses parting the Red Sea so his truck could pass. Stay classy, Costa Rica.

When I saw a bus coming down the highway, I waved it down with my hat. There were obviously no seats available so I eventually found a spot on the floor reserved for wheelchairs. The twisting and turning and smell of diesel fumes did a number on my stomach, but I held it together long enough to eventually get a seat when a man got off before the outskirts of Cartago. The remaining ride to San Jose was uneventful.

Now, I generally have few complaints about Costa Rica. It is basically paradise. But why on god’s green earth can’t there be one central bus terminal? The terminal for the bus from San Isidro is about 20 blocks from the terminal for Alajuela. Since it had stopped raining, I took this as an opportunity to see some of San Jose. The central plaza is great for people watching, but the city lacks any sort of real charm. The walk and subsequent bus ride out were sufficient sight-seeing as far as I was concerned.

Arriving in Alajuela, I went directly to Hotel Pacande, dropped my bag, grab an inferior meal, packed my bag and went to bed for the early flight the next day.

Saturday, February 25

Sooty-capped Bush-Tanager

The day started at 6:30 so I could get 2 hours of hunting quetzal before breakfast. A large group had already formed around the nest hole, but all that was visible were two long tail feathers of the male Resplendant Quetzal. While we waited for some movement, a Black Guan flew across the river and perched in the trees for a few seconds before continuing deeper into the forest. I quickly grew impatient and started to hike along the river hoping to find some smaller species in the brush, but I came up empty. I returned to the nesting hole, but still only two tail feathers. I found a large boulder by the river and decided to just sit. I figured that if anything happened with the quetzal, I would hear it. This turned out to be a great spot as a Tufted Flycatcher, Collared Redstart, Grey-breasted Woodwren, Flame-backed Tanager, Sooty-capped Brush-finch, Black-cheeked Warbler, Chestnut-capped Brushfinch and Black Phoebe. The female quetzal returned to the nest, so I returned to the ever expanding group looking increasingly ridiculous. A guide pointed out a Band-tailed Pigeon and Yellow-winged Vireo. I couldn’t wait any long for the male to appear since breakfast was waiting for me, but the hike out offered a better look at the Sooty-capped Brush-finch. Just before Suenos del Bosque, a Dark Pewee was perched on a power line. This is undeniably the prettiest of the Pewee’s with an orange lower mandible contrasting with its charcoal grey body.

Dark Pewee

After eating, I headed to Savegre to hike some of their trails, finding a Yellow-bellied Siskin in the brush along the river, along with a Stripe-tailed Hummingbird and a Tufted Flycatcher. On the grounds, I got a great look at a Slaty-Flowerpiercer and a Black-capped Flycatcher on the dirt road leading to the trailheads. The start of the Quebrada Trail presented a mix-flock of Collared Redstart, Ruddy Treerunner, Spot-crowned Woodcreeper, Grey-breasted Woodwren, Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush, Black-faced Solitaire, and Flame-colored Warbler. This flock appeared intermittently for the rest of the hike. The trail was incredibly beautiful, twisting deeper into the cloud forest. I also found a Hairy Woodpecker, which has a noticeably darker breast than the North American variety. Crossing a stream, a Mountain Robin was perched on an overhanging branch, allowing a good look, but poor photographs. Three Large-footed Finches quickly crossed the trail. Coming off the trail, a Yellow-thighed Brush-finch provided a much better view than on the hike down the valley.

Black-capped Flycatcher

After lunch, I found and then enjoyed a good long nap. Dinner again featured trucha and again presented more delicious food than I could ever hope to finish.