The trip actually started yesterday, but recounting a day spent in DFW and MIA is hardly the stuff of a Pulitzer. The airport in Quito is ridiculous. Not so much the airport itself, as the decision to have 4 immigration on duty when 3 international flights arrive. I easily spent an hour waiting, and I was in the first row of Economy of the first plane to land. I didn't get to the hostel until 1am, but the view from the rooftop terrace was worth it.
Today was my day to explore Quito and it is certainly charming. I had expected a setting similar to La Paz or even Bogota, but the mountains that define the valley are neither as large nor as imposing. Quito is also substantially lower in elevation than La Paz, and thus significantly warmer.
The Old Town is a compact mix of church spires and squares that invite strolling. I have had my fill of cathedrals from travelling around Europe and decided to only visit the inside of the Compania. Built by the Jesuits, it is Baroque in all its grandeur. Most interesting to me was the fresco depicting Hell on the south wall. The punishment for various mortal sins are vividly illustrated: the drunk is forced to drink a vat of boiling hot water; goblins gnaw on the tongue of the gossip; fiery liquid is poured upon the genitals of the lecher. It is impressive from a modern perspective and it must have been all-together frightening for an Andean coming to market in the early 1700's to experience the awe of the gilded interior and then the dread of eternal anguish that awaited them if they failed to follow the word of Christ spread by his Spanish missionaries.
After re-emerging into the equatorial sun, I continued to the Museo de la Cuidad (the City Museum). Housed in a former hacienda, the museum does an amazing job depicting the growth of the city from Incan outpost, through colonial center of the Audencia of Ecuador, to capital of the nation. On the floor of one room, intricate wood-work was used to create a map of the early colonial city. A security guard offered his services as a guide in return for a chance to practice his English. In the courtyard, a restaurant provided an excellent lunch and the opportunity to soak in the surroundings. Overall, an enjoyable stop for the afternoon.
I returned to the hostel, enjoyed a good nap and then headed for one of Quito's recommended restaurants: Zazu. The chef offered a seven course tasting menu, which was very hit or miss. When they hit, though, it really was spectacular.
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