Tuesday, June 7

The morning broke with heavy clouds, so I remained in bed until 7:15. I agreed to meet BC at 8:30 for breakfast before we headed of the El Fuerte, the ruins just east of Samaipata. This left about an hour to explore the grounds for the first time, as we arrived too late to engage in much birding the day before. Working from the field between my casa and the tea area, I found Bananaquit, Rufous-bellied Thrush, Red-crested Finch, and Saffron Finch. The parque and hillside behind the main building we exceptionally active with Golden-billed Saltator (the white supercilliary beginning at the eye was diagnostic, but the beak was decidedly dusky rather than golden), Ultramarine Grosbeak, House Wren, Black-backed Grosbeak, White-tipped Plantcutter, Blue-and-Yellow Tanager, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Hooded Siskin, Eared Dove, Black-capped Warbling-Finch, White-bellied Hummingbird, and Rufous-browed Peppershrike.

Red-crested Finch (300mm f/4 1/250, ISO400)

Ultramarine Grosbeak (300mm f/4 1/200, ISO400)

After breakfast, we went to the Museo El Fuerte (nothing interesting to see) and then a taxi to the actual ruins (Bs50). Numerous Turkey and Black Vultures circled as well as a Southern Caracara. The wind kept most birds at bay and there were very few singing. The woods behind the ruins offered two surprises: Variable Antshrike and Two-banded Warbler. The walk back to Samaipata yielded Mitred Parakeet and White-and-blue Swallow.

We returned to La Vispera around 3:30 and ordered lunch. The food is prepared fresh, and in large part from products grown on the farm. One of the women who run the kitchen brought out a bowl to hand-pick greens and edible flower petals from the garden. In addition, there is a traditional adobe-stone oven where they had just finished baking various rolls. This all takes time and we were duly warned of their slow-food philosophy when we checked in. We embraced it, drying ourselves in the sun, chatting and strolling around the grounds. Given the late hour at which we finished eating (5:30), I decided to skip a the eventual trip to town for dinner and instead purchase some of the bread-goods and a small bottle of wine to take back to my room. A well-deserved and well-savored hot shower kicked off the evening festivities of identifying my photos and listening to music.

Bird tally: 23 total, 17 new, 14 lifers