Thursday, May 31

I was up by 4:30 so we could leave in time for the Cock-of-the-Rock lek. I originally backed off this part of the tour, but changed my mind last night. In the end, I was the only one who decided to go, so I had the morning with Jose. We arrived just before 6 and hiked down to the overlook. Two Cocks were busy squawking and flapping their wings in display and a third Cock eventually joined them.

Around the same time, a cock joined us. A French one. With a big video camera. Now, I only had my cellphone, but still wanted to record the display. They paid no attention to this fact while setting up, absolutely unconcerned about the noise their chatter created while I was recording. When they were finally ready, the Cocks had already flown. Justice.

Angel, the owner, was able to attract a Giant Antpitta and her chick to the trail. He is quite famous for this, calling out “Maria” and tossing pieces of worm. It was amazing to watch the mother collect two or three pieces at a time and then place them in the squealing mouth of her brood. Moving further up the trail, Angel was able to coax 4 Dark-back Wood-quail to the trail, including one chick. They were rewarded with a banana, while we were rewarded with amazing views.

The next stop was the fruit stand, where Toucan Barbet, Crimson-rumped Toucanet, Blue-winged Mountain Tanager, Black-chinned Mountain Tanager and Sickle-winged Guan ate almost from his hand. A small break in the action sent us to photograph “Pepito” the Ochre-breasted Antpitta. The Hummingbird feeders were also excellent with many species common to Tandayapa, but also Empress Brilliant and Velvet-purple Coronet. As we walked over to the entrance for a snack, the Frenchman and his guide flushed Orange-breasted Fruiteater. The male remained tucked in a tree, but the female was calling actively in plain view.

Snacks included much deserved coffee and a delicious empanada along with a view across the valley on a perfectly clear day. On this front, today was absolutely unrivalled. One last stop sent us to another section of the property. We tramped through the forest on a narrow trail. And we waited while Angel whistled, tossing small pieces of wood trying to entice a Yellow-breasted Antpitta. We waited for almost 20 minutes and Angel had to return to his farm work (harvesting blackberries). Just as we were about to give up, our target arrived for excellent photographing.

We returned to the lodge for a nice lunch, packed the car and were on our way to Calacali for some birding in dry scrub. While not as productive as we would have liked, I was able to add a female Black-tailed Trainbearer and Black-chested Buzzard-Eagle to the list. At 4, we began the final leg back to Quito, a trip that netted at least 110 new species photographed.

8 Lifers

Wednesday, May 30

Today started even earlier than yesterday: in the car and on the road at 5 to get to Rio Silanche. I tried to sleep by largely failed. Why don’t back seats recline? I mean, they can go forward to lay flat, so why don’t they angle in the opposite direction?

We birded a long section of road. The birding was high quality. The road, however, was not. The combination of rain and traffic left it a soupy red clay. Ironically, this road led to a clay quarry that I can only presume provided the raw material to make other roads. Needless to say, I was glad I decided to come with a full pair of boots.

We quickly added Little Cuckoo and Lesser Greenlet along with Lemon-rumped Tanager, Scrub Blackbird, Shiny Cowbird (photographed later) and Variable Seedeater. A reclusive, but noisy Brown Wood-rail was our next big find. In a far tree, we located Red-rumped Woodpecker, but the area where we were standing also provided Slaty-capped Shrike-Vireo, Sooty-headed Tyrannulet, Dull-colored Grassquit, Violet-bellied Hummingbird, and Yellow-tailed Oriole. Only a little farther on, a Crimson-backed Woodpecker hammered away, while Bay-headed Tanager and Yellow-tufted Dacnis also arrived. Our final big find along the road was a Western Woodhaunter, who allowed excellent views as he actively sang.

We continued to the preserve by car, but passed a farm field that had Masked Water-tyrant, Shiny Cowbird and Pacific Hornero. I also noticed a bird with long, thin wings that Jose identified as a White-collared Swift (photographed later). I could not believe that a swift could be that large.

At the reserve, the big attraction is a canopy watchtower where you can enjoy passing flocks at eye-level. Just sitting there produced White-vented Euphonia, Orange-bellied Euphonia, Bay-headed Tanager, Yellow-thighed Dacnis, Scarlet-browed Tanager, Scarlet-thighed Dacnis, Purple Honeycreeper, Ruddy Dove, Dusky Pigeon, Masked Tityra, Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Chestnut-mandibled Toucan, Choco Toucan and Pale-billed Aracari.

It is worth mentioning two things. First, there were again several tanagers I missed, including Grey-and-gold and Tawny-capped. Second, a Choco Trogon arrived to relieve me from relying on cell phone pictures. Crimson-rumped Toucanet provided a similar service.

We moved to the trails, picking up a Purple-chested Hummingbird at the start. I missed getting a photo of the Sicklebill and a mixed group of antbirds (Pacific Antwren, Checker-throated Antwren and Western Slaty Antshrike) refused to descend into visibility. In general, the day was dead from here out, though we did find Black-capped Pygmy-Tyrant, Sulphur-rumped Flycatcher, Plain Xenops and Slaty-capped Flycatcher along the road.

After lunch, we climbed the tower again. While the number of birds was limited, we did get good views of Purple-throated Fruitcrow, Masked Tityra, and Western White-tailed Trogon. Another go at the trails with just myself and Jose was again frustratingly bare.

23 Lifers

Tuesday, May 29

Damn me! Damn me straight to hell! My stupidity never ceases to amaze, but we will get to that eventually.

Today started even earlier than yesterday. The alarm went off at 4:30 for 5am breakfast. We were on the road to Milpe by 5:30 and birding not too soon after the sun came up. We started in the parking lot as flock after flock came through. I was again overwhelmed by the sheer numbers of tanagers in the tree tops, unable to really focus on one bird for fear of missing others. This is a frustrating issue for which I have yet to find a solution. Nevertheless, I did get a decent view of a Swallow Tanager, followed by a Choco Tyrannulet (split from Golden-faced Tyrannulet). I also added a Blue-necked Tanager.

The hummingbird feeders were active all day, allowing for Green Thorntail, Green-crowned Woodnyph, White-whiskered  Hermit, White-necked Jacobin, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Green-crowned Brilliant, and Andean Emerald. While watching the feeders, a group of Maroon-tailed Parakeet landed in nearby trees and an Ornate Flycatcher landed nearby. Next, a male Collared Trogon appeared, then a pair of Pale-mandibled Aracari.

When then moved to a field across the street where White-thighed Swallow were swooping about. Thankfully, some were also resting on a wire. A  Ruddy Pigeon was perched high in a tree across the field, but I did not get a chance to see the Rufous-necked Tanager near it. A flock of Bronze-winged Parrots passed overhead, as did a single Mealy Parrot. Orange-bellied Euphonia, Yellow-bellied Seedeater, Rusty-margined Flycatcher and Tropical Flycatcher also presented themselves, along with a Fawn-breasted Tanager. A pair of Guayaquil Woodpeckers were busy tapping away on a dead tree on the other side of the field, but they eventually passed quite close to us, allowing for excellent views, if only mediocre photos. Around this time, I noticed my camera battery went from full (3 bars) to not full (2 bars).

Returning to the trails, we quickly found a Pale-vented Thrush, Slaty-capped Tyrannulet, and Golden-naped Tanager. Moving deeper, a Buff-fronted Foliagegleaner moved up a tree with a Spotted Woodcreeper, Choco Warbler, Ornate Flycatcher, Wedge-billed Woodcreeper, and Dusky Bush-tanager in the same mixed flock. We then grabbed a fabulous male Golden-winged Manakin, who perched nicely for an extended period. He held my attention for a good while, but we eventually moved on to locating a pair of Club-winged Manakin. We also came across a Stripe-throated Hermit

The next section of trail offered another large mixed-flock including: Yellow-throated Bush-tanager, Scaled Pygmy-Tyrant, Choco Toucan, Black-crowned Tityra, Golden-hooded Tanager, Choco Warbler, Golden Tanager, Spotted Woodcreeper, White-shouldered Tanager, and Ornate Flycatcher. Sometime during this segment, my battery went from two bars to one bar and I knew I was in trouble.

Lunch was spent watching the activity at the hummingbird feeders, but largely avoiding photographs except to capture the Hermit. After, we headed a short distance to Milpe Gardens. It started to rain, so we camped out under pavilion and looked down on the hummingbird feeders, which had great action. A cute, but damp puppy sauntered over to make friends.

Eventually, we hit the trails, which did not disappoint. Our first hit was Guira Tanager, followed by Wedge-billed Woodcreeper. At this point, I believed I was up to 998 bird species photographed since I started with a Hairy Woodpecker in Lodi, Wisconsin. As it would turn out, I did not yet know that I had managed to photograph Yellow-throated Bush-tanager earlier in the day. Thus, number 1000 would turn out to be the beautiful Spotted Nightengale-Wren.  Not a bad milestone. Of course, at the time, I believe this was number 999 and that Slaty Antwren was the special bird.

A good flock kicked up that included all three foliagegleaners: Lineated, Buff-fronted and Scaly-throated. A Russet Antshrike was also active and the female Collared Trogon made an appearance. Moving on, we found the White-bearded Manakin. Another healthy flock produced Rufous-rumped Antwren and Buff-fronted Foliage-gleaner. I knew my battery was dangerously low, but an Ornate Flycatcher was sitting up in a perfect position, so I snapped away. Then, coming around a corner, a Scaly-throated Foliagegleaner confronted us to defend its nest. This was too good to pass up and I let it rip…until the battery died—why does the camera need to rub this in by using red text? A pretty good way to go, but there was still lots of birding left (it was 2:50), and no way to take a picture.

Well, the battery died until we found a Pacific Flatbill. I took the battery out, shook it, licked the contact, threw her back in, focused the bird manually, turned on the camera and somehow managed to get more shots until getting it died again. I repeated the exercise and was able to steal one manually focused shot of a Plain-brown Woodcreeper.

I used up most of the remaining juice on a White-whiskered Puffbird. Had I paid attention, I would have ignored this one, which I had previously seen in Panama, but I thought I was shooting a White-faced Nunbird. This left me only a few shots of a Crimson-Rumped Toucanet before the battery died for good. This was unfortunate, since the toucanet eventually moved into an open patch to feed. Good locks, but awful pictures.

The final indignity was coming around the corner to see a Choco Trogon. As a last resort, I pulled out my cell-phone to grab a picture and some shaky video. Still counts, right?

Lifers: 31

Monday, May 28

Today started at 5:30 so that we could be in the bird blind by sun-up. This proved exceptionally productive, yielding Scaled Antpitta, Uniform Antshrike, Immaculate Antbird, White-tipped Dove, White-throated Quail-Dove, Chestnut-capped Brushfinch and Streak-headed Treehunter. After breakfast, we gathered our things for a day in the Upper Tandayapa Valley. Just as we were getting into the SUV, a Smokey-brown Woodpecker made an appearance—a bird I had barely missed my last time here.

On the drive, Jose found a much better view of a Cock-of-the-Rock just off the roadside. We stopped near the entrance to the side road I walked in March, but we spent the remainder of the morning walking along the Old Nono-Mindo Road.

As with my previous attempts, this was a frustrating day. The light is almost always terrible and the birds stay largely in the canopy. By the end of the day, I have missed as many birds as I have shot and ache from head to toe. Nonetheless, the day was very productive and I should focus on the many birds I was able to find (really, the guide was able to find and I was able to photograph).

The first good find was a Golden-naped Tanager that allowed a much better view than previously. I noticed a lot of activity in a tree across a field, which resulted in a healthy mixed flock and my first of many frustrations. I struggled mightily just to manage a terrible set of photos of Russet-crowned Warbler. Returning to the road, I spotted a White-bellied Woodstar and later found a pair of Grey-breasted Wood-wren

Continuing along the road, a new mixed flock appeared including a Yellow-bellied Chat Tyrant, Orange-bellied Euphonia and Capped Conebill. Jose had been using the call of an Pygmy Owl to flush up birds, but to our great surprise, it actually produced a Andean Pygmy-Owl, who as subsequently swarmed by other birds.

We dipped on the Tanager Finch, but soon after located a pair of Powerful Woodpecker. Near the gas pumping station another mixed flock—always with a Collared Inca and a pair of Spectacled Whitestart in the lead—was moving through and included Dusky Bush-Tanager, White-tailed Tyrannulet, Brown-capped Vireo, Streaked Tuftedcheek, Flavescent Warbler and Cinnamon Flycatcher. I missed out on a photo of a Mountain Wren. A little further on we found a Grass-green Tanager.

We started the drive back to the lodge around noon, but were soon distracted by another feeding flock. This generated a great diversity of species in a location that actually allowed for a good view at eye level, rather than staring blindly into the overcast sky or through a fog. This led to the best views of Tuftedcheek, Bush-Tanager, Western Hemispingus, and Black-crowned Warbler. I also saw a Sepia-colored Wren, but was unable to get a photograph.

After lunch and a nap, we hiked the trails around the Lodge, which netted a wonderful photo of a Cock-of-the-Rock along with Scaly-throated Foliage-gleaner, Whiskered Wren, Tawny-bellied Hermit, Ochre-breasted Antpitta, Wedge-billed Hummingbird, and Toucan Barbet.

21 Lifers

Sunday, May 27

Today began the first day of my first organized birding tour. I woke up at 4:30 to be ready in the lobby for breakfast at 5. After a plate of fruit and some coffee, we (myself and a woman from Los Angeles) were off to Yanacocha with our guide, Jose, and driver, Hugo.

When I first tried to bird Yanacocha in March, I made it about an hour before becoming drenched. Today, we were graced with incredibly blue skies until early afternoon. On the road to the reserve, I grabbed a picture of a Southern Yellow Grosbeak, which I had actually seen before in fleeting glimpses, but had never bothered to identify. As I was setting up the tripod, a number of birds were called including lifers like Black-chested Mountain Tanager, but for these I was only able to grab a quick look while they flew farther up-mountain.

Properly ready to bird, the first hummingbird was a Shining Sunbeam. We then encountered a mixed flock of Masked Flowerpiercer and Glossy Flowerpiercer, followed by Supercilliated Hemispingus. Jose recognized the call of an Ocellated Tapaculo, which did not allow a sustained look, but clearly revealed its dazzling collection of spots. A Stripe-headed Brushfinch also made an appearance as we hoped for another shot at the Tapaculo. Coming around a corner, a female Barred Fruiteater was perched beautifully.

Around this time, I was starting to feel three cups of coffee assault my bladder. I let Jose go ahead and I dipped down a side trail with thoughts of finding a rarity, but mostly thinking about how good it would feel to pee. Midstream, the endemic Black-chested Puffleg appeared and calmly perched. I pushed as hard as my muscles would allow and ran back to grab the camera. After a good set of shots, the bird flew away and I called to Jose to confirm my suspicions. We were almost 90% sure we had the Black-chested and returned to the trail hoping for another look. After a few minutes, he reappeared, his violet vent and neck glistening.

More hummingbirds followed as we moved along the trail and toward the hummingbird feeders, notably Tyrian Metaltail. We also came across White-tailed Tyrannulet. At the feeders, we were treated to Buff-winged Starfrontlet, Sword-billed Hummingbird, Sapphire-vented Puffleg, Golden-chested Puffbird, Great Sapphirewing, and Mountain Velvetbreast.

Our attention to hummingbirds was momentarily disrupted by Jose, who coaxed an exceptionally curious juvenile Rufous Antpitta from the forest understory. At some points, the antpitta was so close that I could not focus the lens, passing between my legs as I struggled to keep the tripod from falling over.

The walk back netted the male Barred Fruiteater, Scarlet-breasted Mountain Tanager, Blue-winged Mountain Tanager and Hooded Mountain Tanager, along with a flock of Rufous Wren. After a well-deserved lunch, we got to watch one of the most bizarre spectacles. The ranger whistled a random tune and tossed pieces of worm to Tawny Antpitta who seemed as well trained as any dog.

On the ride to Tandayapa Lodge, our base for the trip, we stopped on numerous occasions either to walk a promising stretch of road or to track down an interesting sound. This yielded many good species including: Plain-tailed Wren, Azara’s Spinetail, Spectacled Whitestart, White-tailed Tyrannulet, Slate-collared Redstart, White-capped Dipper, Slaty-backed Chat-Tyrant, Capped Conebill, Andean Cock-of-the-Rock, Sickle-winged Guan, Montane Woodcreeper, Turquoise Jay, Plushcap (no picture). Arriving at the Lodge, the feeders were alive as usual, but I was able to add a Green-crowned Brilliant to the list of new hummingbirds.

23 Lifers

Saturday, April 14

K and I made an overnight trip with Delta down to the central coast. First, this gave me a chance to see Corpus. We drove through downtown and then stopped for lunch. Next, we came up Padre Island, stopping at Mustang Island S.P. There were a good mix of shorebirds including Willet, Ruddy Turnstone and Sanderling, whose quick forays on rapid fire legs entertained the other bi-peds.

The wind created some harsh currents, so we just walked along the beach. Delta must have felt comfortable, because she readily trotted into the water. This obviously left her caked in salt and sand, so she got a quick bath before we headed out for Aransas Pass. I had never come from this direction, so I had my first ride on the ferry that connects Port Aransas (Port A) with the mainland.

We dropped our things and then set out to find a kayak rental. The wind was terrible, but we thought it was worth a shot. We passed a place advertising kayaks, knocked on the door and the guy seemed happy anyone wanted to be on the water. For $15, we had a kayak for 2 hours. Paddling was incredibly difficult, and K was saddled with a sit-on-top. I would have switched, but Delta was seated between my legs, and I didn't know whether that would actually be more treacherous. Nonetheless, any time on the water is good time, though Delta was again wet, salty and sandy.

On Sunday, we headed over to Aransas NWR. On the way, I noticed a tern kiting along the roadside. This justifiably raised my hopes and after a U-turn, I was able to know Gull-billed Tern off my list. While the rest of the state had been virtually inundated the past few months (Brazos County was officially out of drought stage), the coast had seen none of the precipitation. As a result, the alligators were largely absent, very few marsh birds were around and the mosquitos were unbearable. We did not stay long, which is a shame since Aransas is one of my favorite spring spots for nature.

Wednesday, March 19

Yesterday was spent enjoying the alleys of Cuzco, shopping at the various artisan markets. Today began my four-day trek of the Inca Trail to the sacred city of Macchu Pichu. I did not actually get to do much birding during the trek because it just isn’t an easy stroll. Waking early to push up mountain passes and flail down hillsides is not conducive to paying attention to Sierra Finches. There is much I can say about the experience: the awesome beauty of the landscape, the rush that follows cresting two passes, the comradery that quickly developed amongst our diverse band of trekkers. I am not sure any of those descriptions would do it justice, so if you are reading this, listen to Phil Knight: Just Do It.

As for the birds, over the course of the trek, I was able to see Green-and-white Hummingbird, Sparkling Violetear, Band-tailed Seedeater, Plain-breasted Hawk, Mountain Caracara, Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager, White-winged Black-Tyrant, Bare-faced Ground-Dove (replacing the picture on my cell-phone from La Paz), Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant, Giant Hummingbird, Bar-winged Cinclodes, Rufous-collared Sparrow, Black-throated Flowerpiercer, Moustached Flowerpiercer, Mitred Parakeet and Plumbeous Sierra-Finch. 

White-winged Black-Tyrant, male

Bar-winged Cinclodes

Plain-breasted Hawk

Mustached Flowerpiercer

Plumbeous Sierra-Finch

Streak-throated Bush-Tyrant

Green-and-white Hummingbird

Mitred Parakeet

Monday, March 19

Sunday was spent heading to Cuzco and then onto Pisac, one of the two main towns in the Sacred Valley of the Inka. Sunday is market day in town, an enjoyable experience for sure, but the items being sold were clearly massed produced. It is also good to descent into the valley (2700m) for a time to acclimate to the elevation in Cuzco (3300m).

Monday included more exploration of the Sacred Valley, slowly moving from Pisac down to the important Incan city of Ollantaytambo, easily one of the greatest place-names to say. There are many NGO’s working in the Sacred Valley, often placing students in volunteer opportunities living with families. This was an opportunity to see some of this first-hand.

Wren-like Rushbird

From Ollantaytambo, the way to Cuzco passes through the village of Urubamba and then over the mountains. While there is a well-paved highway, there is also a detour on a dirt-road past two alpine lakes. The scenery was incredibly beautiful and the lakes held Silvery Grebe, Andean Coot, Spot-winged Pigeon, a female Yellow-winged Blackbird and a Wren-like Rushbird.

Saturday, March 17

The goal today was to pick up as many birds as possible on my last day around Lima. I took a taxi to Villa Marshes south of Lima. Not knowing precisely where I should be, I asked the driver to stop at some ponds holding shorebirds. This offered wonderful birding, but I really should not have done this alone. As luck would have it, a group of 4 girls were also strolling around the trail, so I figured they offered some protection from trouble. The first set of marshes offered Greater Yellowlegs, Stilt Sandpiper, Long-tailed Mockingbird, Striated Heron, Grey-headed Gull, a dark-morph of Vermillion Flycatcher, Andean Coot, Common Moorhen, and a furtive Many-colored Rush-Tyrant.

Grey-headed Gull

Walking towards the actual reserve, another set of ponds yielded White-faced Pintail. An Osprey was perched, while Harris’s and Swainson’s Hawks circled. The ponds at the reserve offered additional looks at Comorant, Pied-billed Grebe and Andean Grebe, along with a better shot of the Rush-bird.

White-cheeked Pintail

I walked along the highway waiting for a bus with a sign for Pucusana. This is a small fishing village along the Pacific. I eventually found a bus that would take me to the bus that would get me to Pucusana. Along the way, we passed a large collection of Incan ruins.

Unlike the Pacific Northwest, where a warm current from the ocean hits the cooler air created by the Cascades producing ceaseless rain, Peru is subject to a cold ocean current that moves up the west coast of South America and crosses warm, equatorial land. The cold air is able to absorb very little moisture from the water, which is easily absorbed over the continent, creating a seaside desert. Arriving in town, I wandered hoping to find Humbolt Penguins from shore. This only produced more Pacific Pelicans.

After lunch, I decided to swallow my wallet and hire a boat to take me to the penguins. It only cost a reasonable $30 for an hour, but it nearly cost me my lunch. This small wooden boat with an outboard motor that barely wanted to turn over noisily made its way through the harbor, disturbing the peace of every other vacationer (this seems a popular destination for well-to-do Limenos). I added Red-legged Comorant and Guanay Comorant, though I was unable to photograph Peruvian Tern.

Guanay Comorant

Red-legged Comorant

All was well until we left the safety of the harbor. The waves from the Pacific weren’t terribly big, but the resonant effect of inbound waves meeting rebounding waves from the cliffs generated uncomfortably rough water as we approached a group of sea lions. I became increasingly worried that the captain of my dingy would catch a wave wrong, sending me (and the camera) overboard. Actually, the camera would have been the least of my concerns, since I think in that water I would have quickly been slammed against the cliff-side. While I tried to put my faith in the captain and his recommissioned lawnmower motor, I somehow was able to get a good shot of a Peruvian Booby, my first of that group. Nonetheless, I was ready to head to calmer water, penguins or no penguins.

Pacific Pelican

Peruvian Booby

Friday, March 16

The trip to Lima on Thursday was uneventful and as I usually do when arriving in a new city, I took a nap, though I did notice the tremendous collection of Neotropic Comorants on the power lines during the ride from the airport to Miraflores.

The highlight of the day was actually dinner at Restaurante Central. I had the chef’s menu and such incredibly good food. One of the best places I have ever eaten and the chef stopped by the table to chat. The head chef was actually away that night, so his assistant was running the show. The kitchen is separated from the dining room by a glass wall and it was impressive to watch the meals being constructed.

Today, I decided that I would descend the cliffs that separate the Miraflores district from the beaches below and walk along the Pacific. As surfers prepped themselves for waves, I enjoyed a very productive stroll. Pacific Dove (previously conspecific with our White-winged Dove) were abundant on the cliffs. Pacific Pelican (previously conspecific with Brown Pelican) were on the beach along with Band-tailed Gull. A large flock of striking Inca Tern blanketed a pier. Franklin’s Gull and Kelp Gull were perched on power lines along with countless Neotropical Comorants. This was good practice to learn the field marks that separate Franklin’s from other black hooded gulls as I waited to see them spread their wings to reveal white before their black primary tips. The last stop on the walk back produced a small flock of Grey Gulls. 

Pacific Dove

Grey Gull

Inca Tern

Wednesday, March 14

Today was a meeting day, but rather than getting lunch between UEES and ESPOL, I grabbed a cab to spend an hour at the botanical gardens on the north side of Guayaquil. The cab driver agreed to meet me at the entrance after he ate lunch, so I left most of my stuff in the taxi. I changed into a t-shirt and tried to move slowly so as not to completely drench myself. Not much time and one could only hope for so much in the mid-day heat, but I nevertheless added Fascinated Wren and One-colored Becard to my list. Considering I had not expected much good birding in the city, I managed 6 new birds over the two days. 

Fasciated Wren

Tuesday, March 13

The flight to Guayaquil was uneventful, but the traffic in town and humidity are anything but. My room was not ready for check-in, so I grabbed my camera and walked along the Malecon, hoping to find something interesting along the Guayas. I was particularly hopeful about the Botanical Gardens, but I did not recognize them as I strolled right through them. Regardless, I quickly found a Pacific Hornero.

Pacific Hornero

A small pond contained three juvenile Black-crowned Night-heron, a Scrub Blackbird, and a Social Flycatcher. There was a restaurant on the other side, so I wandered over for lunch. While sitting there, I saw a Striated Heron capture a fish and a pair of Ecuadorian Ground-Dove. An adult Black-crowned Night-Heron started to hunt and managed to nab a large fish. As he struggled with how to swallow its catch, I impatiently waited for the check not wanting to miss the show. Eventually, my waiter came back with the change and I sprinted around to the area where the Night-heron battled its prey, arriving just in time to see the beast swallowed in a swift gulp. Incredibly impressive sight. Walking back to the hotel, I found a jaunty Southern Beardless Tyrannulet in a tree.

Scrub Blackbird

I returned to the hotel, turned the A/C on full blast and took a long nap. I only reluctantly woke up and strolled to a sushi restaurant. Walking the streets of Guayaquil is not recommended and I understand why. Very desolate. I moved fast, didn’t slow down and didn’t look around. It was an unnerving 6 blocks. 

Monday, March 12

The plan for today was simple: wake up incredibly early to sit in the blind and wait for skulkers to make an appearance and then return with Ben to the area we birded the day before, but earlier in the morning when the skies tend to be clear. The first part of the plan was moderately successful. I waited in the damp darkness (or was it the dark dampness?) and eventually a Streak-capped Treehunter and a White-throated Quail Dove appeared. On the walk back to the lodge for breakfast, I also caught a quick look and terrible photo of a Uniform Antshrike.

While the weather largely cooperated with the second part of the plan, the birds did not. We largely struck out except for a good view of a Gorgeted Sunangel. Pushing farther than the day before, we did locate a Greater Pewee perched atop a tree and a small flock of Grass-green Tanager on the walk back to the car.

I definitely wanted to return to Quito before it got dark, but the birds were quite active back at the lodge. I got improved shots of numerous birds, but also scored a number of new finds including Western Emerald, Black-capped Tanager, Black-winged Saltator, White-tailed Tyrannulet and Cinnamon Becard.

Western Emerald (all green hummingbird at rear)

Cinnamon Becard

The ride back was uneventful, with several stops to poke around spots near the river. I survived Quito weekday traffic with only one missed turn that sent me all the way into Old Town. The car got returned and I found a hotel near the airport for my flight to Guayaquil the next morning.

Sunday, March 11

I was out by 5:45 before the sun came up. Ben had mentioned that the driveway was a productive area and I slowly made my way downhill. A Slate-throated Whitestart was flycatching from the ground near some coffee plants. As the sun arose, a mixed flock of birds crossed the drive below the lodge, but I could only identify a White-winged Brushfinch. Somewhat frustrated by this poor start to the day, I made my way back to the lodge, picking up a female Barred Becard along the way. A Dusky-capped Flycatcher and a Golden-crowned Flycatcher were also perched near the lodge.

After breakfast, I planned to drive to the Upper Tandayapa Valley with Ben and just needed to run back to the room for my rain jacket. I walked up to the roof on a whim to see if I could spot a Cock-of-the-Rocks, but was instead greeted by a Golden-crowned Quetzal. When he flushed, I noticed a Tawny Breasted Hermit near some Heliconia. Since I didn’t get a picture, I walked over hoping he would return. Though he did not, a Masked Trogon landed no more than 5’ away. While I had seen the female in Bolivia, this was the first time I had seen the male.

Masked Trogon-male

Golden-headed Quetzal

After the trogon flushed, I noticed a Golden Tanager in a banana tree. This had been a big miss the previous day, so I was happy for the extended view. This was just the beginning of a large mixed flock of tanagers, including Silver-throated Tanager, Metallic-green Tanager, Golden-naped Tanager, and Beryl-spangled Tanager.

Golden Tanager

Finally getting started with Ben, we drove up the Nono-Mindo Road. I saw a bird flush 3-4km up the road, so I pulled over. This yielded Long-tailed Antbird, a first for both Ben and myself. We stopped again below Bella Vista for a spot that is typically good for Cock-of-the-Rock, but had no luck.

Reaching a side-road about 10km from the lodge, we parked the car and walked the road. This provided a good view of the Collared Inca. Things were slow and we dipped on a side trail. On the way out, we hit the jackpot. A huge mixed-flock of just about everything came through. Unfortunately, the sky was totally overcast, creating an impossibly bright, white backdrop that made it impossible to identify birds either with the camera or binoculars. This was incredibly frustrating, but we still were able to see Streaked Tuftedcheek, Pearled Treerunner, and White-sided Flowerpiercer, Dusky-faced Tanager. Unfortunately, I missed the Toucan Barbet that Ben located.

Collared Inca

On our walk back to the car, we found three beautiful species: Turquoise Jay, Crimson-mantled Woodpecker, and Plate-mandibled Mountain Toucan. Stopping again for the Cock-of-the-Rock, we flushed a raptor, but were unable to identify it.

Plate-billed Mountain-Toucan

During lunch, a number of birds came to the papaya feeder, allowing for great shots of Red-headed Barbet, Thick-billed Euphonia and the male Lemon-rumped Tanager. I then enjoyed a 4 hour nap, followed by dinner, conversation and Bananagrams with the group of hummingbird photographers.

Saturday, March 10

The binding constraint today was picking up the rental car. The office at the airport did not open until 8am, so I arrived at 7:30 to be the first in line. I am incompetent and do not adequately know how to operate a manual transmission. Of course, when the office finally opens, they don’t have any 4-wheel drive automatics. Thus, they need to send me to another Avis location. This would all be fine if I were in Kansas City or even Los Angeles. But, I’m not. I’m in Quito, Ecuador.

I have only enough knowledge to get from the airport to the old Nono-Mindo Road. It takes me all of one block to make an illegal left hand turn. There is no sign alerting me to the fact that left turns are not allowed, only the finger waving of very angry drivers coming from the opposite direction. Getting out of Quito was chaotic and would have been a disaster had it not been Saturday morning with minimal traffic.

By a combination of luck and the Google Maps app on my phone (GPS still works on a cell phone even if you have put it in Airplane Mode), I managed to make it out of downtown, through some barrios and onto the Ecorouta del Quinde. This remarkably well signed road used to be one of two routes between Quito and the Pacific coast. Largely obsolete because of a highway built about 20 years ago, the cobblestone/paved/dirt road is still a wonderful way to get into the Tandayapa Valley. Centered around Mindo, this is one of the prime ecotourism locations in Ecuador outside of the Galapagos Islands and thus a likely component of a potential study-abroad program.

My first detour was to Yanacocha Reserve. The 10km turnoff definitely required a high-clearance vehicle and the roadside bushes offered Great Thrush, Rufous-collared Sparrow and other common species. The dirt road was potholed throughout, with the deepest earning large stone monuments that forced me to swerve and squeeze by. I paid $15 at the office and watched Sparkling Violet-ear and Giant Hummingbird at the feeders. The main trail (Inca Trail) is wide and I was hoping to catch a couple mixed-flocks pass through.

First to appear was a Masked Flowerpiercer, readily identified by a black mask and red iris. In the same set of bushes, I also spotted a Rufous-crowned Brushfinch. This is the northern counterpart to the (previously conspecific) Bolivian Brushfinch I had seen at ApaApa.  On the other side of the path, a Spectacled Whitestart flew through some higher branches along with a Scarlet-bellied Mountain-Tanager. Farther on, a Glossy Flowerpiercer was feeding from some flowers, then found a perch from which to sing.

Glossy Flowerpiercer

A number of hummingbirds made an appearance, including the Sapphire-vented Puffleg and a Rainbow-bearded Thornbill. By this time, a heavy fog had run up the valley, eliminating the possibility of high quality photographs. I dipped onto a side trail that descended into the cloud forest below the Inca Trail. This was beautiful and actually quite birdy, but the dense foliage made it impossible for me to actually identify or photograph what I was seeing. When I eventually popped out, a mist had developed that quickly turned to drizzle and then a downpour. I hurried back to the car, but not before getting fairly soaked.

The road back to Nono-Mindo held up fairly well given the rain. From the Yanacocha turnout, the Nono-Mindo Road is paved for about 15km before it too becomes a dirt road. As the rain continued to fall, the quality of roadway deteriorated. It was impossible to judge the depth of potholes once they filled with water and the muddy surface became as slick as snow. In one spot, a deep pothole sent the SUV into a fishtail, but after three or four turns of the wheel, I was back in control.

Despite this, the way is exceptionally scenic and for the last 10km runs along river. There was very little traffic in the other direction, which was convenient given the endless supply of blind, narrow corners. It struck me that with Quito below the equator, it was possible that I was going to cross into another hemisphere. Looking to the GPS in the car, I was just 2” below the equator. Then 1”. And then it read: 0 0’ 0”.

This was so very cool to me, that I hadn’t noticed the small truck coming in the other direction. A head-on crash would have been a great way to celebrate, but both he and I glided toward the side of the road and passed with room to spare. From here on, the road became quiet bad and I was very much looking forward to reaching Tandayapa Lodge.

And then I reached the lodge. And saw the steep, and now slick, road up to the car park. And I was no longer looking forward to anything. But, I made it and was almost immediately struck by the number of hummingbirds. Oh, the hummingbirds. So many at the back feeders I could not possibly count them. With the help of Ben, the volunteer guide, I eventually figured out what I was seeing: Purple-bibbed Whitetip, Rufous-tailed Hummingbird, Booted Raquettail, Violet-tailed Sylph, and Woodstar.

Violet-tailed Sylph male

Violet-tailed Sylph female

Booted Raquettail

Purple-bibbed Whitetip

Outside the other side of the lodge, a large piece of papaya attracted a number of birds, including the elusive Red-headed Barbet and a pair of Blue-winged Mountain Tanager. A Golden-olive Woodpecker was also siddling up a tree. Bouncing back to the hummingbird feeders with a guide in hand, I also spotted Buff-tailed Coronet, Andean Emerald, Fawn-breasted Brilliant and Brown Violet-ear. Bouncing back to the papaya, a flock of Red-billed Parrots allowed for a decent photo, perched close rather than flying in the distance. A Swainson’s Thrush, Lemon-rumped Tanager, and Buff-throated Saltator were also around.  

Blue-winged Mountain-Tanager

Red-headed Barbet

Buff-tailed Coronet

The rain began to let up, so I moved my stuff into a room several hundred meters from the lodge. From my window, I could see a resting Common Potoo. Walking back to the lodge for dinner, I also spotted a Slate-throated Whitestart and Brown Inca.

Brown Inca

Friday, March 9

Having gotten my bearings, today I met with the heads of the Tourism Management and Economics departments at PUCE, Pontificia Universidad Catolica del Ecuador. Very productive. While I took a cab to the university, I leisurely strolled back to the hostel. Quito does not have the safest reputation and I wanted to get a feel for the area around the university. I felt very safe, at least during the day.

That evening, I also walked from the hostel to dinner at Theatrum, located in the Opera House. The streets were bustling and again, I felt very safe. A tour group that was heading to the Galapagos Islands took most of the tables, but they had arranged for a member of the company to give a performance during dinner. The set varied from Verdi to Sinatra. My only complaint is that the long, red drapes prevented you from looking out on the square below. Otherwise, a combination of very good food and wonderful ambiance. I was very careful on the walk back, following right behind a mother with her child, and then two couples, until I was in sight of the police who regularly patrol the Old Town.

Thursday, March 8

The trip actually started yesterday, but recounting a day spent in DFW and MIA is hardly the stuff of a Pulitzer. The airport in Quito is ridiculous. Not so much the airport itself, as the decision to have 4 immigration on duty when 3 international flights arrive. I easily spent an hour waiting, and I was in the first row of Economy of the first plane to land. I didn't get to the hostel until 1am, but the view from the rooftop terrace was worth it.

Today was my day to explore Quito and it is certainly charming. I had expected a setting similar to La Paz or even Bogota, but the mountains that define the valley are neither as large nor as imposing.  Quito is also substantially lower in elevation than La Paz, and thus significantly warmer.

The Old Town is a compact mix of church spires and squares that invite strolling. I have had my fill of cathedrals from travelling around Europe and decided to only visit the inside of the Compania. Built by the Jesuits, it is Baroque in all its grandeur. Most interesting to me was the fresco depicting Hell on the south wall. The punishment for various mortal sins are vividly illustrated: the drunk is forced to drink a vat of boiling hot water; goblins gnaw on the tongue of the gossip; fiery liquid is poured upon the genitals of the lecher. It is impressive from a modern perspective and it must have been all-together frightening for an Andean coming to market in the early 1700's to experience the awe of the gilded interior and then the dread of eternal anguish that awaited them if they failed to follow the word of Christ spread by his Spanish missionaries.

After re-emerging into the equatorial sun, I continued to the Museo de la Cuidad (the City Museum). Housed in a former hacienda, the museum does an amazing job depicting the growth of the city from Incan outpost, through colonial center of the Audencia of Ecuador, to capital of the nation. On the floor of one room, intricate wood-work was used to create a map of the early colonial city. A security guard offered his services as a guide in return for a chance to practice his English. In the courtyard, a restaurant provided an excellent lunch and the opportunity to soak in the surroundings. Overall, an enjoyable stop for the afternoon.

I returned to the hostel, enjoyed a good nap and then headed for one of Quito's recommended restaurants: Zazu. The chef offered a seven course tasting menu, which was very hit or miss. When they hit, though, it really was spectacular.

Ecuador and Peru 2012

The search for study abroad opportunities in Latin America continues. There was very little time between getting back from Costa Rica and leaving for Quito, and some of that required a return to New York. 

This nearly 3 week stretch will send me to Quito, Guayaquil, Lima and Cuzco to speak with colleagues at other universities. There will be time for birding on the weekends and early in the morning. And of course, during my trek to Macchu Piccu. If I can pick up 80-100 new birds, that would be a nice haul.   

Costa Rica wrap-up

Coming soon

Sunday, February 26

I did not sleep well and only reluctantly got out of bed at 7am to try again for a view of the male quetzal. The trail to the nesting hole offered Spotted Barbtail, but once again only two tail feathers were on display. Many of the same birds from yesterday also appeared. Overhead, the Central American variety of Red-tailed Hawk (bright rufous tail, but clean white breast) made a few wide circles before disappearing behind the ridge. I again left for breakfast without seeing the male, but returned later when everyone else had left. My patience was rewarded with an outstanding view of the female from several angles, though I never did see the male full-on. My last new bird of the trip appeared in the brush on my way out, Yellowish Flycatcher, along with Tanwy-capped Nightingale Thrush, Philadelphia Vireo and Common Brush-finch.

Resplendant Quetzal female

The women working at Suenos packed a lunch for me and I headed to Savegre to grab a ride up to the Pan-American Highway. As we ascended, it became increasingly misty. Memories of getting soaked in Cotapata sprang to mind, but thankfully the bus stop was covered with a tin roof. It took some time for a bus to San Jose to pass, giving me plenty of time to observe Ticos. For instance, it caught my attention that a large trailer was charging up the mountain far faster than those that had preceded it. I then noticed a large sticker of a hemp leaf on his window. A second truck was decorated with a large mural of Moses parting the Red Sea so his truck could pass. Stay classy, Costa Rica.

When I saw a bus coming down the highway, I waved it down with my hat. There were obviously no seats available so I eventually found a spot on the floor reserved for wheelchairs. The twisting and turning and smell of diesel fumes did a number on my stomach, but I held it together long enough to eventually get a seat when a man got off before the outskirts of Cartago. The remaining ride to San Jose was uneventful.

Now, I generally have few complaints about Costa Rica. It is basically paradise. But why on god’s green earth can’t there be one central bus terminal? The terminal for the bus from San Isidro is about 20 blocks from the terminal for Alajuela. Since it had stopped raining, I took this as an opportunity to see some of San Jose. The central plaza is great for people watching, but the city lacks any sort of real charm. The walk and subsequent bus ride out were sufficient sight-seeing as far as I was concerned.

Arriving in Alajuela, I went directly to Hotel Pacande, dropped my bag, grab an inferior meal, packed my bag and went to bed for the early flight the next day.

Saturday, February 25

Sooty-capped Bush-Tanager

The day started at 6:30 so I could get 2 hours of hunting quetzal before breakfast. A large group had already formed around the nest hole, but all that was visible were two long tail feathers of the male Resplendant Quetzal. While we waited for some movement, a Black Guan flew across the river and perched in the trees for a few seconds before continuing deeper into the forest. I quickly grew impatient and started to hike along the river hoping to find some smaller species in the brush, but I came up empty. I returned to the nesting hole, but still only two tail feathers. I found a large boulder by the river and decided to just sit. I figured that if anything happened with the quetzal, I would hear it. This turned out to be a great spot as a Tufted Flycatcher, Collared Redstart, Grey-breasted Woodwren, Flame-backed Tanager, Sooty-capped Brush-finch, Black-cheeked Warbler, Chestnut-capped Brushfinch and Black Phoebe. The female quetzal returned to the nest, so I returned to the ever expanding group looking increasingly ridiculous. A guide pointed out a Band-tailed Pigeon and Yellow-winged Vireo. I couldn’t wait any long for the male to appear since breakfast was waiting for me, but the hike out offered a better look at the Sooty-capped Brush-finch. Just before Suenos del Bosque, a Dark Pewee was perched on a power line. This is undeniably the prettiest of the Pewee’s with an orange lower mandible contrasting with its charcoal grey body.

Dark Pewee

After eating, I headed to Savegre to hike some of their trails, finding a Yellow-bellied Siskin in the brush along the river, along with a Stripe-tailed Hummingbird and a Tufted Flycatcher. On the grounds, I got a great look at a Slaty-Flowerpiercer and a Black-capped Flycatcher on the dirt road leading to the trailheads. The start of the Quebrada Trail presented a mix-flock of Collared Redstart, Ruddy Treerunner, Spot-crowned Woodcreeper, Grey-breasted Woodwren, Ruddy-capped Nightingale-Thrush, Black-faced Solitaire, and Flame-colored Warbler. This flock appeared intermittently for the rest of the hike. The trail was incredibly beautiful, twisting deeper into the cloud forest. I also found a Hairy Woodpecker, which has a noticeably darker breast than the North American variety. Crossing a stream, a Mountain Robin was perched on an overhanging branch, allowing a good look, but poor photographs. Three Large-footed Finches quickly crossed the trail. Coming off the trail, a Yellow-thighed Brush-finch provided a much better view than on the hike down the valley.

Black-capped Flycatcher

After lunch, I found and then enjoyed a good long nap. Dinner again featured trucha and again presented more delicious food than I could ever hope to finish.